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PI stock 1.5 ohm PII .6 PIII .3

The older analogue ones are almost always off, no issues with digital ones yet.

Still have a ton of them all older analogue. Lots of tach dwell meters also. Have a few of these sets also all calibrated. Just PM me with your need.

BUMP

TTT

TTT

BUMP

BUMP

Transistor looks tall and no writing on it Can we get a better pic?

Fake, just a stock oem specs like a black box. Fake transistor also. [/URL]

You will have issues with ECU.s They are made off shore. "licensed and Replaces" is a big clue. The one on E bay at least has a high rev ECU prob the best available now.

Sounds like a typical Mopar ignition dies hot runs cold. Either the pick up or a ecu usually, especially the new no name orange boxes, check it when it is hot and dies. Just fyi

Who's orange box real Mopar authorized or a box just orange? Usually one ohm to be safe on the street. Not knowing which coil you have.

Yes look at the link. RPM is the difference with the right rated ballast resistor.

OK thats funny high fail rate look at them even a "fake" transistor. One of the reasons they fail. Long but beats up the ecu's out there. once again "Mopar authorized." https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/1974-brain-box-saves-the-day.472657/page-10...

Mopar have to run a ballast. Each application has a different purpose really what you want to achieve.

Early unipoint easier to install. No small screw on a capacitor. Have to love them used to run a different style all the time.

Man the old days we just drove the old studs out with a BFH and pulled in the new ones with flipping the lug nuts over add a washer and impact them in with a impact gun. Did hundreds of them that way.