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all carriers interchange between all the cases 741 , 742 , 489 the only difference is the carrier bearings the 25590 /25520 bearing has a 1.796 I.D. for the earlier carriers ( pre 1969 ) and the LM104912/ LM104949 has a 2.000 I.D. for the later carriers ( post 1969 ) ,,,, the O.D. is the same...

742 case Timken HM803149 cone HM803110 race next to pinion head ,, next to yoke HM89443 cone HM89410 race ,, Koyo should be the same number

in you initial post you state when you turn to the right you get small hesitations when turning , that sounds like you have clutch chatter ,, add more friction modifier and go out and drive your car to heat up the oil then find somewhere to safely do a series of tight right and left turns (...

if for sure you have the 3.54 gear in your Dana 60 going to 3.23 is only going to lower your cruise rpm by about 200-250 rpm at 65 mph ,, not really worth the change as the money spent ( $1000.00 - $1500.00+ ) for the rebuild will still buy a decent amount of gas for a car that is only driven...

new rear wheel drive cars/trucks are broken in well before it arrives at a dealer ,, when the car/truck comes off the final car line ,,where fluids are topped up and other items checked they are driven to the Rollers where each vehicle is run to check transmission function etc. if it passes then...

here are the break in instructions i give out with every differential i build ,, and i stress strongly to the customer before they leave to follow the instructions to the letter. new bearings and gears build a lot of heat on initial run in and you have to give them a chance to run in properly. n

clutch type sure grip carrier bearings 25590 cone 25520 race Timken , National etc.

Dennis you may have broken teeth on the ring or pinion gear or maybe the carrier spider gears have welded themselves to the cross pin and wore out the case which might explain the banging noise. there is an ad on kijiji for 8-3/4 differentials. except for the speedo gear change it is a straight...

missing something ,, yes ,, from the looks of the 50 year oil i would rebearing that unit and add a sure grip unit ,, scrub the hell out of your housing ,, and is that just the old grease on the top of the ring gear teeth or chipped teeth. if you think its look that good and feel lucky clean...

the number shown on the shift arm (890 ) does not look like a Hurst arm number ,, also Hurst shifter arms have rounded tops and bottoms yours shown is straight cut ,, so maybe you have a mix and match combination of factory stock or Mr Gasket shifter parts and Hurst parts , i believe the...

earlier Chrysler carrier units both open and sure grip used a 0.370 shoulder on the ring gear bolts ,, later units starting about 1969 had a 0.380 shoulder on the ring gear bolts which would not allow them to be used on the earlier units ,, all you have to do is simply open your ring gear bolt...

if you do go with the 8.8 you would be advised to rebuild the unit with new bearings , clutches etc. so instead of using the flat pinion flange the Explorer rear axle uses replace the flat flange with a conventional u-bolt yoke like Yukon YY F880601 (1330 series yoke 3-518 inch across...

so your stock 68-70 B-body 8-3/4 is 60-1/8 inches WMS to WMS (wheel mounting surface ) Explorer rear axles from 1991-03 are 59-3/4 inches WMS to WMS so slightly shorter than the 8-3/4 , early 1991- 94 Explorers have drum brakes ,, later 1995 to 03 Explorers have disc brakes. the other thing...

Motive Gear bought out Richmond about 12 years ago , you will still see Richmond gears advertised and will come in a Richmond box but the gear inside is made by Motive Gear .

you tried 0.090 - 0.150 ,,, what was the original shim thickness when you pulled the diff apart ,, in a 742 case should have been in the 0. 86 - 0.095 range ,, depending on the case / gear ,, if say the original shim was 0.090 you should have taken out 0.003 like i stated in my previous post and...

pattern is too deep on the drive side it needs to be moved up on the tooth which will improve the coast pattern as well ,, if you end up buying the tools to do this try taking 0.003 out of the pinion shim ,, the pattern should improve moving up the tooth ,, keep doing this till you get a well...

first off -- the pic shows the thrust button for the clutch style sure grip ,, Bower bearings and Timken were used in factory set ups by the condition of the one you show that is an original bearing and needs to be changed out , as for your gear pattern it needs to move up on the drive side so...

all yokes interchange between 741 , 742 , 489 cases as long as the spline count -- 10 spline or 29 spline -- is the same , the raised portion in the top yoke is for the factory metal dust flange

Chrysler Imperials with 8-3/4 differentials used a u- bolt type yoke ,, i have 3 or 4 of them here

sometimes with new u-joints there is a tad too much grease under the cups which you cannot compress by hand ,, try placing the u-joint in a vise or C-clamp and compress it , then try the fit again. you do want your joint to fit snug in the yoke.