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Using wires on both sides of the old ballast resistor worked. Thanks everyone for the advice.

Ya that’s similar to how I have it now but doesn’t keep spark on crank

And that will take care of both key and crank power?

I have a msd 6AL, msd distributor, coil, wires, the whole setup. I have the small red wire (key power) hooked up and tested it. Great spark following msd testing instructions. However, when I crank the engine to start it, the msd box switches off and I lose spark. I know Chrysler has a key vs...

Previously I used a Chrysler mini starter 3005984. The RobbMC starter was part number 3005 I think

This is good to know. I always thought they had to be exactly even

I’ve heard complete mixed reviews on this. Some say they slide right in. Others say sometimes they are pure evil to install. I’m going to take it apart again. No idea what could be wrong. Literally everything is new or rebuilt in the suspension.

Yes they are the same height. I’m still screwing around with this. I think I need a big wrench and some leverage to get the torsion bar lined up properly . Very frustrated at this point.

Maximum Performance by Jim Schild is a great one.

Yes I think I will

I know what you mean. I’ll have to look into this. Looks very level in the back side to side

Interesting you mention this. I was thinking maybe it had something to do with that but didn’t know how it would directly be involved. I have the superstock springs which have 2 extra half leafs on the right side I believe. Couple of years old. That’s the same side that is sagging more.

At least I’m not the only one!

I’ll have a look but the car is pretty solid. Just had all the body work done and the crossmember wasn’t a concern when down to bare metal . I’ll watch the back and have someone else crank the bolt just to be sure.

My thoughts were to remove the swivel as well to clock down further but then was stumped on how to get it back in

Yep totally agree with this . Tried to get it to line up by doing this and i can’t get it over to that next flat spot. This may be a dumb question but can that socket end/arm that touches the adjustment swivel lose it’s integrity and start to bend under tension? Or is there no way that would...

Left side (side that went in easy and adjusts easily) is higher. Right side (passenger) sags. I can get right side to slide in similar to the left side but have to crank the bolt a stupid amount to even out the height even close. I feel as if the torsion bar needs to do one full clock over on...

Everything is really tight. No slop. I even went as far as to disconnect the lower control arm completely to pull it down as far as possible. Still tends to fall into only one place. Bars come out fairly easily once the adjustment bolt is loosened off.

Front end of mine is all rebuilt as well. How do I check this clocking? I’m not sure what you mean by that. Won’t they only slide in if the clocking is correct? I think PST has the bars clocked at 20 degrees

Brand new bushing. I’m interested to know why you think that could cause the issue. Would play in that bushing prevent tension in the torsion bar? I’m open to a discussion about anything as I’ve tried to unravel this issue a bunch of ways in my head.