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Just get the right ohm for your ignition system. I took advise from a You Tube channel and ordered the wrong one. They said the .32 ohm is what they use. Didn't for me.Got a .6 ohm for my aftermarket ignition. If you are running the Mopar electronic ignition or points a 1.5 ohm is used.

I did get a rip off Air Gap and the machining was off causing vacuum leaks at the ports.Straight edge and a file took care of that. Did have one bolt hole that was off enough I couldn't get the bolt started.Again a file took care of that. The bad was R&R of the manifold and another set of...

This just happened to me. A Accel coil that slowly died. Check out fine using the service manual procedure. First a few hic-ups then stalling at stops/idle then cutting out at road speed. Finally it would start/run for about 30 seconds then die. I too thought it must be fuel related. Pulled the...

The New Edelbrock manifold has the off set thermostat housing for A/C .Now this depends on the age of the manifold.. Also many different ports for heater hose hook up to fit many years.Or for temp gauges. If buying used they may be different. I also painted it with fuel resistant ceramic spray...

I have run that combo on many small blocks. Like anything it all depends on your budget. Edelbrock gaskets are good same as Felpro. Use the thick Edelbrock base gasket. Studs are a good Idea. The intake is a spread bore so watch that you center the base gasket for no vacuum leaks. If it fits...

I'LL SAY !

Yes. Power seat make it worth more. Had the same button style in a 1975 Dodge Charger. The driver was power and manual on the passenger side.

Or if you don't have a wall in front Mount a 6'' convex spot mirror with a Truck bracket to the lift itself. Driver side also paint a bright color stripe on the driverside so you can see it in the spot mirror..Worked for me.

Pertronix II.Instructions say to by-pass the ballast. Also I just had a coil go bad that was on the car for only 3 years with little run time. Checked the coil per service manual all checks good. ? Swapped for another coil and she fired right up !

Mine was noisy at slow speed turns. Found many You Tube videos with the same complaint. Fix was changing out lube from 75/90 to 140. Worked for me. Mine was new about 15 years ago. Maybe now they have improved. If I was buying new I'd go with Dr Diff. My 2 cents.

I have a Worth,made in Fort Worth Texas, About 23 years old.

Don't worry,, It'll buff out ! :lol:

Yes that is what I did on a 63 4 door sedan. A hardtop may be easier to manipulate and may not need to remove the stops. Are you using factory style with the clips ?

Worth the wait !:thumbsup:

Usually the Pertronix 1381A you still use the ballast.I would use the 1.5 and have on many cars. The Pertronix II and III you by pass. The 3 ohm is Pertronix recommended for 4 and 6 cylinder engines.Did a few Slant 6 Pertronix conversions with a 3 ohm without a problem I have run 3 ohm on V8...

Not a B Body but I did use one in a Duster years ago. Being that a B Body has the shifter mounted further back on the tail housing I believe it would work

I mentioned band adjustment. I switched out a manual valve body and governor for a stock setup. and did the bands tighter than spec.72 inch pounds back off 2 turns on both intermediate and low/reverse/Noticed something not right. Went back in and did another 1/2 turn out on low band. Just my...

Or any wrecking yard scissor jack.Many times with a flat tire you may not be able to get a bottle jack under it. Don't forget the handle !

Splash shield should be driver side attached to front frame rail.The hole is for steering clearance. To keep road grime off the starter.

It sounds like valve body related.At first I was going to say re-adjust the bands but you did that already thinking that the intermediate band is too tight. May need to remove the valve body take it apart and clean.