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I used to write tech articles for High Performance Mopar back in the mid to late 90s, they were mostly cylinder head based along with flow bench numbers. It was a lot of work without the internet we have now, sending pics, all Tri-X 400 and having to fax back and forth for me to proof read, it...

The 3705's I had on my flow bench flowed about 700 CFM, all of the 3447's I had 6 of them were between 598 and 602 CFM

You cut the pin down, the cast 440 piston is about 30 grams heavier than the cast 383 piston, not sure on the 400 cast, I'll weigh one later if I get time.

The 72 and later 440 piston will give you the same deck height as a 68-69 383. I have a nice set of 72 style .040" over Speed Pro flat tops that will go in a 400 if I get a block, it'll be just to sell.

They are not the same carb, but a 64 Ply 383 and 426 SW have the same carb cam and heads with the 426 having a hair more comp and being able to use a bit more duration in NHRA Stock, over the years NHRA has factored them within 3 HP of each other and there are more cars running the 383 than the...

That math is not correct, a slight but not noticeable increase in lower rpm torque but identical HP if both have the same induction, cam and CR.

More like a .030" cut for about 81-82CCs. .0042" per CC.

I only wish that was true, those seats are quite deep and harder than they need to be IMO.

I've ported hundreds of BBM heads, 2.08 and 1.74 valves will work just fine, the 1.88 is not a good thing nor is the 2.19 intake, it takes a lot to make them work for a small gain and sure way to find water.

Engine Horsepower Calculator From Trap Speed this is a pretty good calculator if you know the weight with driver and the 1/4 MPH.

I do steel on steel in my shop with BBM, a beveled 1/8" hole on the top and I set them at about .0012 to .0013" clearance, not a problem and as stated there are no cast BBM rods. After setup it takes me maybe 5 to 10 minutes a rod to do.

When a sprag is broke the stall speed will be lower.

There are some great tools available now for sure, they weren't available back then and I started working in tool and die shops back in 71 so it was fairly easy for me.

Use the side of a grinding wheel and a small, fine straight cut file to deburr and close the gaps by hand while looking into a light to confirm they're square, then put in cylinder to check, it's tedious but not bad once you've got the hang.

Could you send me a PM, I should be able to return one, not having any luck sending one.

The cam would have to be fairly small duration wise and the poly CH being approx .030" higher will make up for the lost CCs in the valve notch.

The poly pistons should work fine and give a similar comp ratio with 318 LA heads on it but will require an LA cam as well.

I'll try again

PM sent.