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It's not a simple solution. It depends. What's your open & closed valve spring pressure? Do the lifters have the proper profile on the bottom? Does the cam lobe have the proper taper? The cam core has to be a good one, not soft Chinese junk.

Not necessarily. 15 years ago I did a point conversion on a '71 383 with a Mopar kit. I ran an extra ground right to the battery negative. No help, the box had an oscillation - constant arc from primary + to the secondary tower. Coil was fine, no cracks. A stock box from a parts car cured it.

A few C clamps and a length of wood, 2x4 or maybe a 1x3. Of course it won't line up. Metal stretches when it's stamped into a form such as a rocker panel. Fitting up is the hardest part of metal repair, and the most time consuming. Do a search on some of the restoration threads on here...

I'm not sure how many 4dr hardtop B bodies there were, but not many? I always liked the look on C bodies. Ford did more of these in the intermediates.

I can guarantee you can pull that plug out of the intake manifold on a 383 without getting wet. You need a port on the outlet side of the pump. If you're NOT running a heater core, that outlet may work, or as mentioned above.

Wix 51515 on my 383 in the Charger with either Brad Penn 10-40 or Valviline VR-1

Flow. The thermostat should have an opening diameter of 1 7/16". https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/emp-stewart-components/make/dodge/engine-family/mopar-big-block-rb/part-type/thermostats-mechanical?fr=part-type

In other words, the assembled pic is all you need. Two bushings, two washers and a sleeve. That light one is extra, or from something else.

Aluminum oxidizes and stains, the cheap clears turn color. I like paint - orange, turquoise, blue or red all look better that stained aluminum in my opinion

They will be back at the Recher in April I believe. I saw them at Club 66 in Edgewood in Feb '20. I think they recently played Fallston Barrel House a few weeks ago.

The FSM recommends changing the inner seals every time an axle shaft is removed. They're not expensive and you're already there.

The original boxes are best if they are intact and working. Most aftermarket stuff eliminates the fresh air option, and there’s less precise control over evaporator pressure. ;-) Keeping factory stuff is an exercise in ingenuity, patience and precision. Then there’s cost. But I would...

The factory stuff is relatively straightforward. Round side goes to the cowl, square end to the box. Hard to find in good shape, and the fasteners are tiny, tricky to get to.

Sorry, looking for closer. Thanks

A good friend of mine is looking for a floor shift P/S column for his 4 speed 69 Coronet. Anyone in northern Maryland or Mid-Atlantic area close by. Thanks!

I have no experience with Poly myself. Are they designed that way? Seems obvious that if the bore isn't smooth then that would be the cause of the OP's part failure. That alone would make me want to use standard rubber. Upgrades are great, but sometimes if you deviate from design, you're...

This might be a silly question but- any chance the LCA nuts were tightened before the height and weight was set? It's the only thing the FSM notes to do when setting up LCA's.

As noted above, we need to know if you're working on a 489 carrier? The other two "popular" carriers do not have a crush sleeve. No way to tell if someone was inside any carrier without opening it up. Many guys note the torque when loosening the yoke and add go right back or add a few to the...