Search results for query: *

Also, I paid $1785 shipped to my door. No clue what others are charging.

Good question if money is a factor in your heads purchase. I wanted to buy some aluminum heads and found if I just spent a few hundred more at that time I bought them, then the heads were never going to need upgraded if I had planned to build up the engine in the future. The ported heads cruise...

Yes, the numbers are what Promaxx claims on their product. I looked nothing into the trickflow stuff to know what they claim on their heads

Flow Data @ 28″ water lift 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 Int 157 224 275 305 318 323 327 330 Ext 108 152 184 208 227 239 247 253

Promaxx 'Shocker' CNC'd 84cc heads. No issues whatsoever. I purchased these from Promaxx directly and they worked with me on spring requirements.

Spark plug threads get exposed to combustion gases as well as the dis-similar metal issues. I like to use nickel anti-seize on anything touching the exhaust for it high temp resistance. Like others have said, there is no downside to using it so why not.

I did my own with jacks stands, fishing line and a tape measure. Drives just fine

10.444 static and 8.58 dynamic with my camshaft

My build consists of the same L2295 pistons with the Promaxx Shocker 84cc heads. Runs great on 93 octane and makes stupid power with the .604" lift solid roller cam. I had no issues with these heads whatsoever and would purchase them again

Dry fitting my tunnel ram and taking a peek at her cam & lifters while I have the opportunity. Only about 50 miles on this build but everything looks fine

Thanks! that's what I needed. You'll notice I said "originally" as it was stripped and grey primered about 20 years ago. It's a shame as the body is in decent shape. I wish I could have seen it before it was stripped

My 65 Satellite looks to have been originally medium turquoise but I wanted to know for sure. Does the broadcast sheet show the paint color? i couldn't seem to make the connection

I have someone stopping by to see the car and quote welding in the 4 standard area patch panels on a 65 Satellite. No paint work but I want them finished and ready for the rest of the car to be prepped. Any suggestions on going rates? I told him to choose the supplier so I will see what he suggests.

Connect to manifold vacuum and make sure the canister is mostly pulled in at your idle vacuum of 15". Your light throttle cruising vacuum will be higher and will completely pull in the ignition advance.

Damn forgot about mentioning Chris' channel. His does great resto work and is such an enthusiast. Still wonder what he does to make the dough to buy the 'projects' he does. Awesome welder too!

I like Nick's Garage but you won't learn much, just entertainment. I also like Jed at Scott's Speed Shop and his channel building cars with his father. Nothing fancy but more in line with my personal interests. https://www.youtube.com/user/bigduo99

I had an issue when I switched out my vacuum adv canister that after 2 days my engine would not start with no spark. Too much gap at the reluctor wheel in the distributor. Was fine for literally about an hour of engine running then nothing on the next restart. I did confirm the coil made spark...

That tool for starting the brake line fitting at 6:45 was pretty slick. Looked like she hand bent the line too on the rear end

The 750 DP that came with my car had a decent sized vacuum leak at the shafts. This was confirmed spraying brake clean near the base of the carb with the red straw to pinpoint application. I replaced the complete carb base with a new one and it cleaned up my idle perfectly.

Hey neighbor. My plan is filling the tank with non-ethanol fuel, put on jack stands off the tires, continue to run my dehumidifier and set/check mouse traps as always. My garage is surrounded by my home for the most part and stays fairly warm, certainly above freezing I also run the carb dry as...