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Sorry I did not post that picture, yes. Although I'm not sure what else is supposed to be in there. No real good posts using the search engine and it not working when I got it I'm not sure.

I have a 1970 roadrunner I bought a couple years ago and the previous owner told me the horn did not work. After further investigation I found the relay fried and also the ground wire attached to the copper plate under the steering wheel. I hooked a battery charger to horn and it sounded very...

So how do you fix it?

I thought 65roadracer may have a recommendation he has had a bit of experience with borgeson

What fluid have you guys been running in your borgeson steering gearbox?

Thanks badvert, that's easy enough. Does that eliminate the load going through the firewall at the bulkhead disconnects where the fires always start?

Iv had the dash apart multiple times and there is a 10-12 gauge black wire (negative) and a red wire the same size (positive). what are you exactly saying to do with those?. Just unhook one and tape it off?

Fixed the Original post to make sense as well. My bad

1970 roadrunner with rally dash Sorry after reading my post I had them flipped around. I installed autometer gauges. (Oil pressure, water temp, and volts) so can I leave factory Amp gauge disconnected at bulkhead connector under hood (pictured in first post) or does that negative and positive...

I am putting new connections on at the bulkhead inside and under the hood along with the blocks. I got the inside done and installed auto meter oil pressure, water temp, and volt gauge. My question is can i leave the factor AMP gauge unhooked at the bulkhead sense i got the autometer volt gauge...

I am putting new connections on at the bulkhead inside and under the hood along with the blocks. I got the inside done and installed auto meter oil pressure, water temp, and amp gauge. My question is can i leave the factor VOlT gauge unhooked at the bulkhead sense i got the autometer amp gauge...

This is how my tail lamp housing is grounded. I currently have alligator clips going straight to negative on battery sense it is relocated to trunk. I plan on making a permanent ground to body for both lamps this weekend. I will definitely take a look at the harness along the footwell, maybe...

I have replaced the board on the back of cluster New factory water,oil, and fuel gauge. All new sending units. 2 different Voltage Limiters from RTE. Have a new dimmer switch that's going in before cluster goes back in

Purplebeeper what did you find out? I'm having same issues. Almost certain it's a ground issue.

Where did you add a ground on the housing? Also what is the male tab on the voltage limiter for?

Good question ord27

I have blinkers, taillights, and brake lights one minute then 2 days later I won't have brake lights then they start working. The gauges really never have worked, they move periodically. When I ground out water temp and fuel they peg. I have replaced the board on the back of cluster New factory...

I currently have my cluster out in my 70 roadrunner. I have been fighting tail lights, brake light, and blinker problems as well as water temp, oil pressure, and fuel level gauges. I have used the search feature for a couple hours where I once seen someone ground each individual gauge. Looking...

I'm dealt this this same exact issue last weekend. Gauge pegged when purple wire is grounded. That pretty much told me everything going from sending unity to gauge had continuity. I know you said thermost was new and working last year but that's what was wrong with mine, never was getting hot...