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To clarify, prior generations have PWM with an internal relay and an in-line fuse. Current units have external relays, fuel pump and main power, and fuses. Also, turn the key to run, fuel pump primes the tb then shuts off. It does not run continuously.

Prior generations of FiTech had the relay built into the ecu with a fuse. No need for external relay.

I replaced everything on my 62 Dart with brake parts from Dr Diff. Master is easily sourced, not sure on the part number, but it's a modern unit. Brake lines with fittings installed came from Inline Tube, iirc.

Depends on the efi system, iirc. My FiTech controls the in-tank pump, has a wire from the ecu specifically for it.

My 67 Sure-Grip had the ratio tag, my 64 Sure-Grip has the round Sure-Grip fluid only tag.

Same ashtrays that were in my 62 Dodge seat.

62/63

Not cheap, possibly cheaper than having them made: Cragar 1521912402B Cragar 61C Series S/S Super Sport Chrome Wheels | Summit Racing

Cragars, Keystone, the like, have a steel plug, called a clip iirc, embedded in the end of each spoke, which is welded to the steel hoop.

Mopar rattle can on one engine, didn't hold up very well. Bill Hersch in a can, brushed on, it's iron clad. Both prepped the same, degrease, hit it with a map gas torch, scrubbed it down. Bill Hersch is a shade lighter, looks way better, imo. I just pulled out the old Bill Hersch can...

Are we talking casting date or stamped assembly date? If someone cares, not me, and an engine has a casting date before, and an assembly date after, does the amount of whining that it's not 'date coded' go up exponentially? And before/after what, the Scheduled Production Date or the unknown...

Lost Muscle Cars

I have efi and all wiring needs to be well sorted, imo. A ground hub next to the battery. Everything is grounded there, car, engine, efi, etc, then 1 wire to the battery. Also have a positive and ground hub under the dash, and a ground hub in the trunk. Efi, coil, get dedicated power...

If you're driving the car on long distance trips a screen on the air filter and radiator are a plus. I did a few long trips this year and we drove through an unexpected big floaty puffy feather like pollen area that lasted forever and stuck to the radiator like glue. Went through a...

Clean them up with a solvent of some kind, then pack new grease, there is enough room. A friend has a grease pump thing that works really well, but I'm cheap. At the least replace the inner axle seals. You could repack the bearings and replace the inner seal and send it, maybe the outer seal...

Used my phone to clean it up then ChatGPT to straighten text. I'm sure some of the text could be 'corrected' or replaced.

Not too shabby, imo.

Just don't remove the rear door handles, then it becomes glaringly obvious.

If the outer seal is leaking the bearing needs to be removed. Cut the retainer off, cut the bearing cage apart in a few sections, pull the bearings out, pull the outer race off, cut the inner race off. Use a cutoff wheel at an angle, be careful not to cut/mark the axle.