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A tale about a car “that matters”. Probably won’t be the last one.

Yes. I installed a new metering valve one year ago this month. Bought from Dr. Diff. It has completely and totally failed this past Sunday. The main proportioning / distribution block (which also came from Dr. Diff) has always weeped at the drum brake inlet connection. The metering block...

I did a full rebuild / replacement of the entire hydraulic system on my 71 Super Bee almost a year ago. It has disc front, drum rear. 100% factory setup with the original Bendix single diaphragm booster. The repro metering valve has failed in only a manner that Chinese junk can. It was...

I’m replying to this thread because the same thing has happened to my car. After taking a long break from the Super Bee, I decided to change the oil today. Looking under the car I found brake fluid on the concrete. More than a few drops, so I placed a small bread pan under it, then attempted...

My 1/16 Tamiya Tiger 323, of the Muncheberg division, abandoned in Berlin, near the Brandenburg Gate, May 2nd 1945. It is a radio controlled Infrared battle tank. I’ve had it since 2009. It fights against other 1/16 tanks, here in AZ, at the DAK Tank Club battlefield. It could use a paint...

Only 4 quarts total capacity with which filter size (OEM 1068 or the longer length 1515)? I have a NAPA Gold 1515 filter on my 383 (with 402 pan and OE dipstick & tube). I’m way past due to change my oil (based on time, not mileage). I can’t remember how much it took to reach the full mark...

The cam specs in my car are unknown. After connecting the rebuilt booster, the brakes seem to work adequately. I’m able to stop the car and don’t have to apply much pressure with my foot on the pedal to do so. I’ve only driven the car one time, at speeds up to 60 mph, since I completed the...

Ran the engine and to my amazement the pedal actually stopped before hitting the floor! I was fully expecting it to hit the floor again. The pedal goes firm now before bottoming out! It’s about time… I backed off the star wheels about 2 clicks and drove this big bitch of a Bee for the first...

Further investigation shows the post on the brake shoe, that the adjuster arm and spring attach to are not the same length on each side.. The post on the passenger side is 14mm tall. The driver side post is 12mm tall. Sounds like horrid quality control by whoever manufactured the shoe on the...

After actually removing the driver side drum, I can now see that the adjuster arm is ALWAYS in engaged with the teeth on that side of the car. I’ll need to replace the adjuster arm spring on the passenger side, as I guess it is no good..

Okay. I broke out the service manual and looked at the 10” drum assembly drawing. I had the spring connected incorrectly to the metal arm that engages the star wheel teeth. The tension on the shoes was as loose as could possibly be too. So I do think this is the source of my pedal going to...

Today, I’ve removed the passenger drum and when doing so found that it is still very loose fitting. Apparently the one lap drive around the block, on Friday, didn’t do any self adjusting. There is a metal bar, that is supposed to engage with the star wheel teeth, preventing it from rotating in...

I was unaware that there is a left and right side drum wheel cylinder. Is this due to being aftermarket, or are STOCK Mopar wheel cylinders specifically intended to be mounted on one side only? If so, how do you tell which side a cylinder is supposed to be mounted on? They both look the same...

I had my old “made in USA” cylinders rebuilt and stainless steel sleeved by Karps in CA. They did my “made in USA” Master with a sleeve too. Doing this cost a hell of a lot more than buying new Chinese wheel cylinders. I hope it was worth it. I don’t know yet, as my newly rebuilt system is...

To confirm, should I be spinning the shoe adjusters with the drums removed? Then test slide the drum over the shoes, until I just get it to slide over? After getting the shoes moved further outward, will I need to re-bleed the rear brakes? Will I not have enough fluid in the rear circuit after...

I call Jeff at Karps, who rebuilt the booster, master, calipers and cylinders. Told him what is happening. He says if the booster wasn’t working, the pedal wouldn’t be traveling to the floor when it’s connected to engine vacuum. He said I got a problem somewhere else in the brake system. He...

Well, I bled the brakes today, with the assistance of a local man, in my area, who owns a 1967 GTX. I attempted to do it myself last Sunday which was a failure. I’ve never bled or worked on brakes before, this was my first time. I had always had brake work done at a shop.. The GTX owner...

Here are two photos of my 383’s vacuum pull at idle (8 to 10 inch hg fluctuating) and at a bit over 2000 RPM (17 inch hg). These vacuum readings were made with the booster disconnected.

It’s my understanding that power disc/drum 383 Magnum cars came with a single diaphragm Midland-Ross (much more common) or Bendix booster in 1971.. I do know the single diaphragm Bendix Booster that I posted two photos of is RARE!! Karp’s, in CA, was the only place in the country that had a...

Anyone know what this 71 Roadrunner sold for? I was kinda liking this car.. You have to be registered to find out, and I am not registered on Mecum.