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Have you used it before? It seemed very thick. I read on this sight you had to drop the crank a little. I should have at least tried it, if this one decides to leak later on I will give it a shot.
That's what's nice about the fastfish retainer you don't have to worry about the side seals. Just smear a thin coat of RTV on the sides and bottom and once it is in, there is a 45 degree reveal in the back, spread RTV in that and that's it, fits like a glove.
I toyed with the idea bringing it to a shop, I found one that did Mopar's, but then I thought to myself that I should at least give it a try. I mean I did everything else and the car turned out nice, not perfect by any means but I learned a lot. I did everything except body, paint and engine...
Finished up and ran it, let it idle, ran it up to temp and revved it to 3000RPM's. I shut her down and checked for leaks and nothing under the inspection cover where it was leaking before. I did see like two drops on the right side behind the inspection cover, under the trans. I don't think its...
I got the Felpro one and I am using the FastFish retainer. I have the FastFish seal but I didn't use it because you have to drop the crank a little to get it up there. I am also using the right stuff black RTV which I read about. I used the retainer because you don't have to worry about the side...
Thanks, I should have thought of that. Well, the seal went in pretty easy so I'm guessing there wasn't much up there. I didn't think this would have been this hard of a job, what a B!$^h! My first time, who knows, maybe I did it right. lol
Tried the zip tie and it seems like there is nothing stuck in there. I bumped the engine and silicone was on the other side of the crank, so I cleaned that off. Got it all cleaned up so I guess I will give it a go!
Changing the seal right now its a 383 and it looks like the engine builder used silicone where the seal goes into the block. I got the seal out but I don't know if there is any residue RTV up there, is there anything I can put through there to make sure its clean? I looked as far as I could and...
No, I did replace the original distribution block, the original didn't have the combo proportioning valve. The one I replaced it with is a combo block/proportioning valve. This is why I didn't need a separate proportioning valve.
No, the distribution block is a combination block/proportioning valve, it isn't adjustable. I think the 70's b-bodys had something like it. No I didn't have to change the pedal to a MC push rod. Used the one from my bendix brake booster.
I was having problems with my brakes when I switched to power disc front and drum back on my 69 RR just like a lot of people on this forum that I read about. My pedal kept going to the floor and I would come to a long rolling stop. I did everything to try and fix this, bled the lines at least 10...