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^ This.

Huh? Led bulbs are 100% polarized. They have a positive leg and a negative leg.

Do you have a wiring manual? I'd start with that. Figure out where the wiring is going to before you burn something else up. When I got my 72 the entire wiring harness was burned.

LED voltage only flows one way. Check the wiring. It could be wired backward since the stock lightbulb only needed a ground.

I've been using LED headlights in my old cars for a few years now. I had them in my 99 Jeep and I "wondered" years ago if they would work on my 66 Valiant. My work commute is in the dark out in the country and they make the world of difference seeing deer, etc. Any 7" headlight that they...

It's a tag for a duplicate key. I have one for an old ford.

Periodically here in Minnesota I need to move my stuff around. I do nothing to them except leave them full of gas and coolant. I even leave the battery in there. On a -15F day they always start. Modern oils aren't like in the old days, they "move" through an engine much quicker. Also remember...

I had issues with my 72 and the dash light fuse popping. It was the cigarette lighter, wiring was cracked and bumping the metal dash, grounding it and blowing the fuse. Follow the dash wiring and look for worn areas.

Okay I'm back, I had to find a free day to take it out on the highway. At 60mph it's at 3,000 RPM. If I let off the throttle it goes down as it should but if I give it more throttle it goes right back to 3,000 at 60mph. I'm pretty sure that's not direct drive. I'm thinking the 2-3 shift valve...

I just have highway gears. Okay I will test it out up to 60mph. I did attempt to adjust the line pressure/throttle pressure. The book I used for the rebuild got a little wordy with those adjustments. It read that the throttle pressure should be adjusted before the line pressure. Is there a...

Check the Alt with a voltmeter? It's either working or not. Also check your points gap. I recently put some points in and thought I'd just eyeball the gap and I was way off. It ran very poor.

I'm not sure what engine you have but you may be able to use a junkyard Dodge Ram 5.9L starter. That bolted up to my 318, and 360. I know starters right now are an arm and a leg...

Here is a diagram I found. If the cluster circuit is fine you'll have to trace it back to the fuse box. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/67-coronet-wiring-diagram-full-color-jpg.121469/

Hello all, I have a 68 904 that I rebuilt and put in a 1972 Charger. I replaced all the seals, bands, and clutches. I pressure checked everything after rebuilding and all seemed good. Now I am having an issue where it will shift 1-2 perfect, but only 2-3 sometimes? It'll shift 2-3 in the...

I agree with the above. Use what you have. That carb may seem crusty but its better than anything you're gonna find on the local parts shelf right now. It's a simple 2 barrel just rebuild it. Once you get it running pour some seafoam down it's gullet. Good Luck!

I bypassed the vapor seperator on my 72. It was missing all the evap stuff in the engine. If you're not using the evap either just go with the 2 vent.

I'm using the original set-up on my 72 with power disc/drum. It works great. No need to overthink or over-do it in my opinion.

My 318 was trashed in my 72. I got a 5.9L Dodge truck motor (360ci) for $250. These motors are super clean and fine to use up to 200,000 miles IMO. Use the 5.9L flexplate for balance, get a new oil pan, replace the intake and you'll need an electric fuel pump but that's pretty much it...

I use the copper cores and open em way up to 50. That MSD will jump the Grand Canyon if needed.

Wowza! Nice Job for sure!