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The machine shop cut the pad when they did a level deck on the engine. That's pretty common with the B engines unfortunately. It's dated for a 68 model year by the casting date.
I sold the car I was building this engine for and now have no need for it. It has been bored 30 over, line honed, balanced, and is absolutely ready to build. It comes with a balanced forged assembly with ARP rod bolts and big valve J heads with hardened exhaust seats installed. I also have the...
This intake is in very good condition. There is one blemish as shown but no porting, cracks, or repairs. As you can see by the part number, this is an original 1970 Challenger T/A or AAR Cuda part. I have looked on multiple sites and forums and have not found an original manifold for sale in...
This intake is in very good shape. It is the no longer produced tunnel ram for low deck Mopar big blocks. It has the dual quad plate attached and has a new gasket. The previous owner painted it but that is easy to change if not to your liking. I’m asking $450 OBO. Located in Winchester, TN and...
This is just what the title says. It was removed from a wrecked Road Runner back in the 80s. It was sold to me as a 3.23 Sure Grip unit. There are no tags that I’ve found but turning it by hand verified the ratio and it will lock if you hold one side. It has the 489 case and is complete with the...
They don't come up to zero deck. They're actually about as far down in the hole as the dome is above deck. I do know it was ran with iron heads on it quite successfully. I don't know what iron head it was using though. If these things were zero deck plus the dome, there's no way I'd even...
These aren’t zero deck but the dome is positive deck. Like I said, I’ll have to do some measuring and triple checking. I may just put the heads and cam in the 383 and send it.
If I go down that route I’m going to be checking clearances real close. I had already figured on a thicket gasket instead of steel shim. I do have a fatter Hughes but it’s solid that might help bleed off some cylinder pressure.
My 68 RR is getting close to finished at the body shop and it's time to plan out the drivetrain. My initial plan was to refresh and install a date correct 383 and 833. I have a lot of parts hanging around in the garage though. Here's something I'm kicking around and wanted to get some...