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Well, right now EU/Sweden really sucks cos of all ill will against classics. One example is the ELV (End of Life Vehicle) act that EU is proposing. Back on topic: I put two of those gauges in a stand alone housing with long cables to dual Bosch Afr sensors. Then did a quick connect behind the...

I see, so 98 EU = 93 US.

From the old days you mean?

I run two of those gauges and they work very well. As earlier said in this thread, check the plugs and also "feel" where the car is happiest/runs smooth. I run 98 gas and my car likes 13.5 - 13.8 Afr best.

I got an aftermarket sending unit, adjusted it and bent the arm so the arm touched the tank floor when reaching the end of its travel. I has a kind of curve to it on the gauge, moving more quickly from full and slowing down towards empty. Works great for me cos then I know that when getting...

Thanks for the info. Yeah, tough mentally.....but could be a project for me in the future. Right now it sounds like a rattle snake is behind the steering wheel...

What were the mods to remove the column hydraulic noise?

Revving an old but good thread. Ok, I dont mind engine/car sounds etc. But wind/traffic noise I want to reduce. I got new weatherstrips, adjusted the windows really carefullly (it took a full day per window), adjusted the roof mouldings holding the roof weatherstrip and so on. After everything...

Yes, all are 6324...and from all of them I can make one working one. Sadly...

Just to be sure, the lock nut at the adjust screw is loosened counter-clockwise, right? Its like Hercules tightened it.

Yes, I bought mine directly, put it in with hybrid coupler etc....and have a small slop at center. Checked and the movement is in the box.

Dont want to start a new thread but does anyone else have a small slop in their brand new Borgeson box? Should I adjust the screw?

Do you have an original or electric fan?

RB engine so the temp sender is in the water pump housing. The intake was changed and nothing else was touched. Putting the thermal gun on the intake and then the engine block shows the intake being less than half the temp of the block. Almost makes you start thinking about those Carburetor...

Ok, got a thermal gun (Blue thingy behind the Tstats in the pic) and the temp gauge is dead on. No problem there. Got a new 180 Tstat on the shelf so I put that in (To the right in the pic). With the 180 Tstat in the Temp got more stable in both slow cruise/highway and sat at a steady 170. I do...

So, when I cruise slowly the temp sits at around 170-180 and the electric fan (and 160 stat) keeps it there for forever....and used to do that on the highway too. ...but now on the highway the temp creeps down to 120-130...and all I did was change the intake? Should I change the stat to a 180?

Yes, find some thick standard pcb from some old electrical thingy you have laying around, grind off the metal tracks, drill holes for the gauge and you are set with something way stronger than original. Did this on my car, should be a pic in this thread somewhere.

Thanks for the pics. In those photos the fast idle is engaged. If you start the car like that without touching the gas then the engine should start on fast idle. Then after a while you should hear the RPMs rise, then you could make a small touch on the gas pedal and the idle should drop down to...

Nice pics. Now show us a nice pic of the Carburetor. You also said that you had the solenoid?

Have you double checked that the choke rod pushes up when cold? The fast idle step is very visible on the cam on the prim throttle shaft. When the engine (Choke) is cold, just touching the throttle should immediately raise the bolt that moves against the prim throttle shaft cam and put it on...