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So we are talking about high output horsepower. I’m not sure what hp a Pro Stocker generates. I was trying to figure exactly where they did file the groove/chamfer. There seems to be a few different ways. The pictures are a bit vague. File across top back edge? Just the top back edge? So...

What kind of builds are these motors you are modifying oil thrust bearings? What application/power range are we talking about when someone should feel it necessary to do this? I have read articles about stroker engines but don’t recall anything about extra thrust bearing protection. Or is...

Having built my own engines in the past I found that post about drilling a hole through the thrust bearing interesting. Never heard of it. I did some googling and found these posts about thrust bearing issues and how others have "resolved" it. Some causes they discuss too. There doesn't seem to...

Just did some googling to get outside input. Possible causes mentioned: -Too much pressure/resistance in the trans pump. Pressure was checked for this -bad crank; be careful of using the same crank chewing the thrust again. This guy chewed up three thrust bearings. -too much end play clearance...

I’m curious Are you using studs for the mains instead of bolts? If so was the block align bored with new studs? I heard that is necessary when switching out the bolts for studs.

When you say “miss” that should mean it runs on all but one cylinder? Or does it break up? Breaking up is not the same as a miss. You can identify a misfire by using a plastic tong or if you don’t mind a possible shock by pulling one ignition wire out of the cap at a time and watch the spark...

You said the engine quit or progressively ran worse with the lights on. You may have a bad alternator or voltage regulator. You may not be getting proper voltage. Start the car and then pull the positive cable off the battery to see if the engine stalls. If so your charging system is bad. If...

Electricity follows the easiest path of resistance. The suggestion of a poor ground is a good one. Make sure your engine is grounded to the frame or body. Not just a ground cable to the engine. You should have a large cable to the engine and a pigtail heavy wire from the battery cable to the...

All depends on the project and degree of restoration. I have purchased repro sheet metal. Close but not the same. They are great when there’s no access to used parts and you don’t have tools/skills to repair. The reproduction fenders and sheet are not the same gauge and fit. You can work them to...

I would hope all of the bearings and journals will be inspected. The motor is out so I would think cam,rod, main bearings should all be inspected if particles have been traveling through the engine. Wear patterns as well. Start from scratch and rule out everything. A lot of possibilities. Was...

Just throwing some stuff out there. I have seen main bearings installed with the wrong half in the saddle. That would cause lack of oiling.dropping the bearing cap would tell you. The motor would still run… Are you sure it’s the thrust bearing? It could be cam bearings too. Especially if there...

So you don’t have a filter after the pump? Kinda makes sense since you don’t have to remove the alternator to replace the filter…

Interesting. Never saw that. Someone did mention hooking up a test tank to rule out the fuel tank and lines before. I’m still leaning towards electrical. Fuel starvation is a possibility. In marine boat troubleshooting you place a section of clear hose to see what’s going on. That could be a...

I’m not challenging the idea. Just interested in how someone would do this. The metal fuel line leaves a short area to hook up the sender at the tank and it runs pretty close to the fuel pump inlet hookup under the hood along the frame. That would mean placing a filter just outside the tank or...

The original socks can be pretty tough to remove. Removing the sock won’t protect the fuel pump…. To each his own.

Be careful under the car removing the sender!! Make sure you siphoned the gas. You could look at the condition of the gas at that time. DO NOT PUT A DROP LIGHT WITH YOU NEAR THAT TANK WHEN YOU REMOVE THE SENDER OR WE MAY NEVER HEAR BACK FROM YOU AGAIN.

1. Did you plug the vacuum line going to the brake booster to rule it out? You said it was a mess. 2. When was the last time this engine ran without the issues? If it ran previously without this issue you can at least say it's PROBABLY not a mechanical issue. 3. You mentioned having a stock...

The charger has a ralley dash cluster instrument gauges. Much of the harness could be alike. If you have an existing harness you might be able to use most of it. But I’m not sure if you are willing to go through the effort. If you have a wire schematic it could give you some insight. I don’t...

Sounds like a lean condition. Or overheating perhaps. Besides all the other things you can try… Do you have power brakes? If so Plug the vacuum line coming out of the intake just to see if there is a difference. You might have a bad vacuum brake diaphragm. If you have a Holley do you have...