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I was wrong there is no servo in the 66 trans. the rebuilt 1968 is in. it has the red clutch discs probably over kill. we put the b&m shift kit using the heavy duty directions. shifts at 4800 rpms at wot. the main thing when I manually shift it say at 5200 rpms it goes right into gear.

My 66 still had the course spline 19. You were right I was reading at the 1966 valve bodies were a little bit different something about the rear Servo in a 66 transmission

the new one is a 1968 and the old one is a 1966

what timing you have. I have another trans being built this week and he is going to tear the old trans apart to see what was going on with it. the old one would shift at 4500 rpms into 2nd and 3rd unless I put the shifter into 1st gear till say 4000-4500 rpms and upshift to 2nd and then it would...

neither one is good but the Howards is better than the Crower. too much spread on both between intake and exhaust plus on 112 LSA. something close to 224-230 110 LSA would be a torque street cam good to 5200 rpms .

my 67 Rt with manual steering is set to stock specs. we have yellow warning signs for curves up ahead one of the warning signs shows 35 MPH and I drive through at 50 MPH. so why would I knock myself out going crazy over caster ? I like my older cars for their characteristics if I want a modern...

put a rpm performer intake on and pick up 30 HP.

I had that one and it was way too tight. they were going to make me up one in-between the two but I ended up getting one from ptc and couldn't use the factory 11" cause I needed the 19 spline one.

the factory 11" like you have is the best your going to get. I put them in my 440 in place of the 12" stock one. I used Hughes 2000 rpm and pulled it out to much flashing and loose feeling. unless you get more into the upper rpm stalls

am sort of hooked on these. need the c3117 for b-body found them for 203.00 total with shipping. can you weld these ?

how about this one . can bolt on or weld right ?

does amd ones go right on ?

any photos ?

not sure what ones to get. like to get the weld on ones . 1967 dodge coronet.

at 65 mph without a lock up converter you would be closer to 1950-2000 rpms.

no. but you can pick the best cam for the higher cr and better flowing heads if for sure you will change the heads.

what I saw in Dyno test was that they take a 215-215 cam and then they test a 215-221 cam and the 215-221 makes more Hp. they should test a 218-218 cam against a 215-221 cam to make everything equal. MR isky always said if you make more power with more exhaust duration then you intake duration...

yea but a cam made with faster ramps for .904 lifter does not know what make engine it's going in to and does not care.

I don't go along with that any more. ok let's say you go with a 215-221 cam and I put a 218-218 I will make less power ? they both have the same over lap.

if you go WOT off the line or to WOT while cruising they both go to zero advance.