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Some may find this link informative... :) 12 Members of Smog Inspection Cheating Ring Indicted

Hey Korn Dog... Thanx for the correction... :D

Looks like some guys don't read the fine print.. The car failed due to high nitrogen/oxide not CO.. :praying: High nitrogen/oxide readings are due to the increase in timing/acceleration, recommend U recheck the basic timing specs and vacumm advance operation.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Grounding can be a problem... The hood lites are grounded through the hinges and often there is a poor connection due to paint and/or oxidation. I had that issue and simply installed a jumper ground link to the hood. Key point is to make sure U are getting the 12V through existing wires. Also it...

We have installed multiple sets of TTi headers, and for the most part they went in without having to dent any pipes. The one install we had a problem, was a 68GTX, and we found that he had bad motor mounts installing good ones and the headers went rite in... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Some of the previous Holley carburators used a clear plastic window to view the float level... This was a great idea except some carburators used a cheap ABS material that easily cracked under severe heat conditions. I almost had a serious engine fire due to this issue... I did contact Holley...

Many years back... I installed Isky adjustable rockers on my 383 and had to mill down the tabs too get the proper lineup. Just my $0.02...

If U want to keep things stock and use the OE headlights, then the relay kit when wired properly does restore higher voltage to the OE headlights. The factory wiring harness does have about a 1.0V-1.5V loss which will cause the OE headlights to be slightly dimmer. Again as I have posted...

1 thing to keep in mind... LED headlights depend more on current than voltage... So no relay kit is required, also note they draw significantly less current than a halogen or incadescent bulb... Just my $0.02...

Note the previously mentioned Holley retrobrights do not require any modifications or cutting of the headlight buckets.. Their rear side is shallow and provides a nice heatsink. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Wanted brighter headlights for my 70RR, shopped around and decided on the Holley retrobrights.. Yes they are pricey but well worth it, installed them and very pleased... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Wow... Can't comment much about your situation but back a few years I did my build step by step.. The 1st engine parts I bought beside rebuilding/upgrading my original numbers matching block was to talk with TTI, on other past owned vehicles I had gone through the hassle of fitting various...

On my 70 RR I installed TTI 2" headers(440-200) and Powermaster starter(Mastertorque 9613) a few years back. Passenger side header slipped rite in, driver side header had to rotate it pass the steering box but everything cleared without having to dent the header pipes. No reported problems...

Nice interesting chart but.. The crucial factor is not voltage but available current battery reserve.. A battery can test @ higher voltage but when the starter current draw is applied the voltage can/will decrease big-time... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

* Custom, mig welded aluminum 3 piece driveshaft loop setup. * Machined from 3/8 Inch aluminum barstock and MIG welded * The construction is 6061-T6 Bright aluminum finish that won't chip or rust and resist corrosion * Flat barstock is 3/8 Inch and the loop is cut from 5.5 Inch tubing and has...

Mopar Clutch Fan Part #3769613 New, never mounted Height is 2.75" Closed WP hub $95 plus shipping from SoCal Payment by PayPal F&F

The challenge is most guys know little about the alternator/charging system... So they start throwing parts @ it.. EZ enough to swap out a voltage regulator, but testing an alternator is a bigger challenge... So taking it to a qualified electrical shop is my recommendation, and noting its...

If the alternator is outputting more than 15V something is wrong inside... Time to pull the alternator off and take it to a qualified electrical shop for testing.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Great!!! :D U found the problem... Regarding the bulkhead connectors as I posted previously to check.. A good practice is to pull each connector out, burnish each tab connector and coat with dia-lectric grease. Been working on these ole Mopars for many, many years and bad bulkhead connections...

Burning out a ballast resistor should only happen on a rare occasion... But again today if Made in China all bets are off.. Chinese quality is bad news. I would suggest checking all of the wiring including bulkhead connectors and grounds closely. Also the ignition switch as these tend to wear...