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The '68 HT is coming mid-year, supposedly new tooling.
MCW and Scale Finishes both have lacquer for air brush use, in pretty much any factory or other color you want.
For windows and a lot of other stuff, Evergreen's Canopy Glue is a godsend.
A good model-making forum/site is Mopars In Scale.
Factory correct color, including the aftermarket stuff, is what I do. To me it looks cleaner, neater, and is easier to keep clean.
I also take the Edelbrock scripts off the intake.
These 2 (at left) haven't seen water in 3 years (yellow) & 5 (blue) - but they live a sheltered life: they never see rain, dirt roads, or get parked under a tree. Never a night outdoors so far.
I washed each one when they first came home - Meguiar's car wash soap - but since then, an occasional...
Windshield garnish mldg: remove screws at ends, loosen inboard screws, allow mldg to drop. If you need it completely removed, no problem, won't affect headliner. Lining up screws is mldg is removed is easy if locations are marked with masking tape or an awl is used to locate 1st hole.
Side...
If the engine is VIN stamped - back by the oil pressure sender, on the bellhousing flange - the trans should be also, same area.
Decor Group came along late enough that the odds are pretty good for stamping.
It'll be something like "8G123456" or 8A-etc depending on assembly plant.
Also, look...
I haven't used one of those, but that isn't a good product review !
I've used mostly Milodon or MP, but I open up the louvers a bit to promote better drainage.
Also a big proponent of using the biggest pan I can fit in the space allowed, but that sounds like probable overkill for the OP.
Street use = no problem.
The issue with wet-sump shallow pans is that the rotating assy scoops oil up from the sump as RPM increases.
At higher RPM, that oil becomes a rope around the crank & rods, which not only creates drag, but aerates the oil.
Smokey Yunick proved that on his Spintron back...
As for the Tremec idea, until their new one (TKX), you had to cut up the floor & torsion bar crossmember.
Rather than cut the car up, either the TKX or Passon's OD gearset swapped into the original trans is a better path to freeway use, or change the rearend gears to something taller.
Nice car -...
Door glass/window regulators - used, worked fine when removed 40 years ago, stored inside since in case I ever needed them.
$150 for the pair - don't want to separate.
Shipping in the US should be around $20-$25 depending on distance.
I'm in the Boise, ID area.
Pretty car. "A" is Lynch Rd, not St. Louis (G). Interior looks like '69 red vs '68 burgundy. '68 exterior side trim instead of '69 MAY be related to expense of the correct '69 moldings, stripe & blackout, but there would need to be a paper trail & confirmation on that. Original 4-speed GTX...
'68-'70 RR VINs start with RM, as already mentioned. For '68-'69, 5th digit is H for 383, J for Hemi.
383 Coupes & HTs shouldn't have torque boxes, Hemi cars should - though a few exceptions (mistakes) have surfaced over the years.
T-bars should be .880" (383) or .920" (Hemi), should have...
There is a chart with % of production that I've seen - I think it was posted on moparts.com a couple years ago by one of the #s guys - but the pale tan colors were very low percentage.
As for anecdotes, yeah, that's all I have: I can only recall seeing 2 light tan-colored RRs since they were...
I always use the gas pedal location - forward inner corner of the heel pad, just inside its perimeter - as primary locator. 4-speed hump secondary, and hopefully the carpet is correctly formed. Lay the carpet in the car first and let it sit for a day or two, works best when warm. I use the ft...
I have a couple of those, but usually, either the facets don't align well with the filter can, or they're slippery.
What I use to remove filters tends to be wither a band-type wrench - sometimes also slippery - or a large serrated-jaw filter wrench.
I always use a shallow aluminum-foil kind of...