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I once had a similar issue with a misfire. Tried everything under the sun to fix it. In the end, it was a crack in one of the cylinder walls. Had to sleeve the block.

I installed the 2.5 degree shims and it seems to have made a difference. Next week I'll be past the recommended break in period and then I'll be doing some full throttle runs / shifts.

I agree. Bought this 1962 300 17 years ago and have put 30k miles on her since. Bone stock and un-restored. A real pleasure to drive.

Maybe a little off topic, but 2 years ago I reconditioned / polished every single piece of trim, with the exception of pot metal pieces, on my 64 Polara. I spent about $300 on supplies. It took me about 30 hours to do it all. This included dent removal, removing any anodizing etc. I also painted...

I swapped the tires side to side and front to rear to help with tire wear. Seems to have made a difference. Going on a long distance tour next week and I'll have a good feel for the changes. I also adjusted the tie rods sleeves 1/2 turn. Steering wheel is now centered. Small changes - great...

Thanks for this. I do have radials. I'll switch the tires side to side and see what happens. Do I need to swap the rear tires side to side as well? In regards to the steering wheel center, it needs to rotate counter clock wise to be centered.

Some do and some don't. Our roads are all over the map.

After removing the oil pan, I found this little gem in the crankcase - it's the "cap" of the main seal retainer. I decided to replace the pan bolts with studs, All studs were were installed with a drop of blue locktite, with the exception of the two pan bolt holes in the raer main seal...

Just did a home alignment on my 64 Dodge. I'm using an older Snap On bulble unit with alignment plates. The following readings are what I obtained. Drivers side - neg 3/8 camber, positive 1 3/8 castor. Passnger side - neg 1/4 camber, positive 1 5/8 castor. Toe in set at 1/8 inch. Car pulls...

When I did a 5 speed conversion, I called McLeod in regards to clutch disc to flywheel distance. They told me .040 - .075 is the required gap / distance.

Changed the oil pan on my 426W for a max wedge unit. Previous pan / crank seal was leak free. After the pan switch, there was a small leak. Leak then got larger to the point that it needed attention. I suspected the oil pan gasket. After a gasket change and a visual check, I noticed that where...

I'm thinking as long as the wires do not come in contact with the headers, you should be ok. If you have 2 - 3 inches of clearance that should be good.

I don't know if this is any help, but my AFR gauge came with a Bosch sensor. The sensor lasted about 2 weeks. No warrenty. An internet search revealed high failure rates with this unit. Switched to a Denso unit. One year later, it's still going strong.

Will do.

Ok, I'm going to install my 2.5 degree shims next week and I'll see if there are any driveline changes. Thanks for your input.

Thanks for this. I'll try the hands off thing. In regards to yokes / driveshaft balance - it's a new unit and should be OK.

To expand a little, while under heavy load, what should I expect to feel on the gearshift handle (TKX). Little to no vibration-smooth feeling through out the power band or will I be feeling engine / trans harmonics or other?

OK, this is becoming a bit more clear. I do have a set of 2.5 degree shims. When I do a visual at the driveshaft / pinion connection, there seems to be hardly any angle at all - almost straight in line, which I understand is not good for the u-joint needle bearings.

There is a vibration in the shifter handle, although I'm not sure what to expect while driving. This is my first stick car. Is what I'm feeling "normal" for a stick car? Not sure. Should I be feeling anything at all in the shifter handle? I guess what I'm looking for is some guidence as to what...

There's no more room to raise the gearbox without major tunnel work. If my drawing is correct, my pinion is pointing up so I'm having a hard time to wrap my head around how as you say, the diff is pointing down. I'm thinking driveline angles are more relevent than how much the trans is down - to...