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So I spray some carb cleaner down throat. Start it up and choke is fully open. I slightly cover air horn and it sounds like it wants to die out. Once temp was close to op temp usually now would it start to bog down however it sounds okay. If it feels warmer than usually would that indicate it...

I’ll try these tests this evening. Thanks guys!

What step should the fast idle screw be on when cold/ warm? I have a feeling whoever did tune last just bottomed out curb idle screw and changed the air mixture. This issue just started randomly without even messing with the carb. Cold start would have high rpm’s then even out to steady rpm...

do you have any reputable brands for rpm or vac gauges?

Say the carb was just rebuild and i need to adjust these two screw for the first time, how would i know what they should be at? Should these two screws be adjusted before the idle mixture screws?

Just recently this started happening. No adjustments had been made prior to it doing this. Occasionally it does smell like fuel. What is the basically for adjust mixture screws? Turn both screws in until slightly seated then back out 1 full turn?

Raising rpm does seem okay. Seemed to be bottomed out on curb idle screw. Unless this is the wrong one

Yeah it’s opening up just fine

Once car is warm it seems to want to shut off. I have a carter bbl on a 318 motor. I don’t have a rpm or vacuum gauge. I am going solely off sound. Not familiar with tuning carbs but I need it running somewhat decently it to get it from A to B. Cold starts runs fine, but once warm it slowly...

What wire would I need to connect to on the ignition switch when connecting gauge to power? Is there an alternative? Having difficulties accessing the switch.

Neither my temp or fuel gauge are working. If I wanted to bypass the instrument gauges and have a separate working temp gauge, how would one do that? Don’t need anything pretty, just functional so I know if I am overheating or not while driving.

It is actually engaged

On cold start, what would cause starter to turn very fast? Almost sounds like fast ticking, then slows down to crank normally. After the car is warmed up the starter with crank over normally and sounds fine. Oddly only when cold. Recently replaced positive battery cable. For a while after...

Just had radiator recored and cleaned. Tested for leaks, all good. Reinstalled and noticed smoking from water pump area, what would the reason be? I only notice the smoke after car has been shut off and it is very subtle. What symptoms would show for a bad water pump?

Found the problem. My kill switch went bad. Connected to positive side on coil. Had a feeling but never thought jiggling a wire not close to that coil would be the problem. Maybe a coincidence that it happened to fail at that time. All seems well now. Thanks all!

milk remember that next time. Thanks! Maybe you can quickly identify another hiccup. While driving and giving it gas, I noticed a slight hesitation when pressing the accelerator. Would this be related to the carburetor not being fine tuned? Sorry, trying to get it driving somewhat reliable

It was about 20 minutes. But I think from trying to start it may have flooded. After about an hour or so and letting it cool down it finally fired. A lot of black soot came out of exhaust.

Shut off vehicle on a decline, front of car down… went to start and would not start. 318 engine with 2bbl carter carb. Problem starting on unlevel ground?

this is points. I am getting 4.4v at coil in run position. Assuming I need a second person to crank in start position while I check meter.

Tested ignition coil and got 1.5 ohms and 8K ohms. Pulled spark plug wire from plug and got not spark. But it’s cranking. Checked main spark plug from distributor with screw driver method. Still no spark. Bad coil? Check BH and cleaned terminals. Fully reseated and solid connection. Anything...