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Yeah, I just replaced the filler hose, there's actually an aluminum 90 deg piece in there, you can kinda see it. I ground the piece to create a pretty tight fit so the rubber coupling is seeing very little gas. Who knows the history, is the filler pipe supposed to be all metal?

See attached picture. According to the service manual this line is the intermediate filling vent tube, connected with a keystone clamp. When I gas up, fuel leaks from this connector. Do I just replace the connector or is something else going on?

67 Satellite, drums all the way around.

I guess some air snuck into the other side. I have to replace that cylinder too, so I'll bleed both sides.

Yeah, there fine, my bad, they are staying properly torqued...

I replaced the drivers rear wheel cylinder and tried to bleed it with a vacuum pump. But I still have air in the line. I'll try again, but what is this device on the rear axle housing? See arrow... Does this prevent vacuum bleeding or do I need to use the "pump the brakes and open the...

I've stated before, the lug nuts do NOT extend past the mounting face of the rim, I'm certain the nuts I'm using are correct for my rims. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel off and inspect the studs.

Tapered vs non-tapered studs, I don't know I'll have to check. The other thread... I recognized the nuts had been mushroomed, all have been replaced.

I'd have to check again, but the last time I did a measurement, the nuts did not extend through the rim center, I did this with the wheel off.

Nuts are not sloppy on the studs. All nuts and washers are new. I think I'l give Weld a call.

I'm using Weld nuts and washers. 601-1416, like these https://www.jegs.com/i/Weld-Racing/927/601-1416/10002/-1. Stock drum brakes. I don't think they're bottoming out. Wheels not new, I don't know how old, they were on the car when I bought it. Weld torque specs provided here, according to...

I have Weld draglites and I have Weld lug nuts too. Every couple of weeks I have to re-torque the fronts, I don't have this problem with the rears. I torque to 85lbs. Anyone have this problem? Can I use thread locker on them?

Take note of the wheels. I don't know what it means?

I was in the process or ordering new rear brakes shoes from my 67 318 Satellite with an 8 3/4" rear. Apparently, the drums can be either 10" or 11". Do I need to pull the wheels to find out? Or does someone know?

When I built my 318 engine I installed an Edelbrock performer intake, which is a spread-bore style intake. I then installed an Edelbrock square bore 650cfm carb. I had only installed a spacer but no adapter of any kind. I was watching Derek Bieri revive an old 50 Chevy also with a spread bore...

Only an inner bearing seal. The outside is covered by the bearing cap.

Found the correct Weld nuts and everything went together perfectly. Yeah, the tire shop hosed me over. Have to be more careful next time.

I found some equivalents at Oreilly's but when I got them home the shank diameter wasn't the same, smaller diameter, they'll be returned. I found some online made by Weld, I got a part number from talking to a guy at Weld. So I'll be using their own products.

yeah, they've been hammered in. See image. I found new ones, I'll be trying them soon.