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Anyone else use one of these, to get things close before you throw the drum on?

That thought crossed my mind, requires new/larger backing plates?

Question for the foot brake guys. I'm going to be putting my car on the track next year (fingers crossed). 66 coronet, 400cu +.030, foot brake, nothing crazy, just some fun on the weekends. Currently have OE style drums (all four corners) 10" x 2.5". Does anyone have a source for HD...

Mine is currently routed around the starter, It's in a heat shield sleeve from the trans bracket to where it passes through he trans tunnel wall. Only qualifier is the car is not a street car, the longest it's been run so far is about 30-40 min. No issues yet...

Tried to send a PM, curious what a race weight, pin on hood for a 66 coronet costs?

I had that same combo before I changed to a 255/65, on 15 x 8, same B/S. 66 coronet, no issues. Although, 8" wheel is pretty wide for a 225 tire, IMHO.

Let us know how it works out, that might have to go on my list of things to buy. Very cool concept!

Right, found out I do have the correct lever according to the B&M procedure for setting it up, went through it this past week. It checked out, I was even able to pull it into first gear position, according to the instructions so it should be good to go. I have to replace an outer tie rod end...

That color is fantastic!

If that works, let us know. I have one of those crooked levers in a box of hardware, on the shelf. I thought it was for a different trans or shifter set up.

I feel your pain. I'm dealing with the same issue on my coronet. I'm using a B&M cable shifter, don't think that's the issue. This weeks project, try and fine that happy spot where it all works, or start looking for a shorter lever.

This is all new wiring, had to build it, nothing came with the car. I think it may be the low amp alt that I installed, only 60 amps and the elec cooling fans take up half of that when they are on, not to mention the elec fuel pump...

Thanks for the assist!

Working on a 66 coronet, originally a 318 car, now it has a B-Block installed. The torsion bars measure .885" on D/S and P/S. The adjusters are backed off to the point they are just making contact, and there's no weight on front end. My question is, can anyone offer a good starting point for...

Got her out of the garage today for a very short trip. No WOT shots, only partial 50-70%. It really seems to like where it's at right now. Did a couple of launches from about 1500 rpm (foot brake), no hesitation, popping, backfire, just spun the rear tires like they weren't even there (dusty...

I assume it's not the same as the tool for P/S pumps?

Are the pulleys on the alt a pressed on item? Is there more to changing pulley sizes, maybe depends on brand of alt? Just curious encase I end up looking at the smaller pulley option.

Yup to both. (1) idles like it has a non stock cam (has that lumpy rhythm) but is smooth and consistent. (2) Idle increased every time I bumped the advance, backed it down at the carb each time. I ended up at 29* at idle and 40* at 2500, and 950ish rpm idle. I didn't want to go any further...

Got it, haven't messed with the idle mixture yet (carb was set up by a friend before install). Right now, timing at idle is at 29* adv and 40* @ 2500 rpm, so not factory timing, idle is good at approx 950, draws 8" of vac at idle. I will see what effect changing the idle mixture has.

Question for you, if you don't mind me asking. How will I know if I go too far with advancing the timing on my motor? I'm going to have the car ready for testing in the next week. Just curious how far I can go and how do I know it's too far? without blowing things up!