Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
And that right there is the key. My experience is more in the industrial maintenance world, where we've placed enormous emphasis on oil quality. For many applications, oil is required to be stored indoors in a controlled environment from the time it arrives on-site. Similarly, that brand new...
Guess I got lucky too. I did an engine cradle, rear subframe, and most of the unibody on my son's car. It's holding up great... extremely tough. Also impossible to get off my concrete floor.
All the other stories have me questioning whether to use it on my current project though
I wouldn't be concerned running old oil in my cars.
That being said, oil quality, age, and storage is a BIG deal in industrial reliability programs. Lots of money gets invested in having closed storage (preferably climate controlled), outside of sunlight, and rotating drums to use within a...
As stated above, vacuum reservoir. My '71 A/C car has it as well, although mine is still hooked up. Service manual shows it in the diagrams for vacuum routing for the heater box.
Also as an FYI, there's an inlet and outlet (check valve). If you hook it up backwards, you won't have vacuum to...
Really glad they finally came out. By the time you find a ralleye cluster with a tach, then go through and restore them, you're already looking at decent $$$$ for gauges that aren't exactly accurate.
Way down my priority list though...
IR laser readings on those headers will probably be inaccurate and will definitely vary depending on where you're taking the temp. Emissivity impacts the accuracy of your reading, and shiny/reflective objects are the most difficult to get an accurate reading on. So on your headers, cylinder 2...
Guess I was lucky... I just bought a cheap one from Advance when mine went out on the side of the road and it lasted years until I sold the truck.
Like you said, it's easy to replace. Easiest water pump I've ever dealt with.
It won't explain your lack of different speeds, but that voltage drop is unfortunately pretty "normal" with the crappy electrical connections. If you test the hot going into your heater switch compared to going out, I bet you see a big drop there. Probably another significant drop at the...
Just down the road from me. The Charger has been for sale for awhile, so I'm guessing it's real rough. Super Bee wasn't for sale last time I saw the Charger listing... agree it looks to be priced too high.
My guess is something small clogged up a passage in the carb... probably somewhere in the idle circuit. That's why it'll run when you give it throttle. I'd pull the bowl and metering block and blow out all the passages.
Good catch... a pin hole like you experienced is usually a good warning that things are deteriorating.
You can use an ultrasonic thickness gauge to evaluate these things too, but if you don't have access to one it doesn't make much sense to buy vs just getting a compressor.
Got a chance to pull a spring and get measurements. Accurate to within a few thousandths; only had my cheap calipers available.
Height- 2.450"
Outer Spring OD- 1.540"
Outer Spring ID- 1.130"
Inner Spring OD- 1.005
Inner Spring ID- 0.725"
Retainer Inner Step- 0.710"
Retainer Outer Step- 1.110"...
I agree, and I've tried to reach out to them for information. Unfortunately like most places these days, they've not gotten back to me.
The retainers are Comp Cams 732-16. I don't see anything listed for spring cups.
I'll probably remove a spring this weekend to get physical measurements...
They're MPP heads from back before Edelbrock made them. PN 4529336. Engine builder bought them as a bare head rather than pre-assembled. Looks like they take all factory valvetrain.