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The circuit from the pump to the converter are the same in both diagrams, same relief valve as well. I don't see how the pressure is different. Also I've never seen a difference in the fluid level between park and neutral, although I know what the books say.

Agreed. The pitch is too low to be piston slap. Sounds like bottom end.

That part was supposed to have fallen into the ocean by now. I feel gipped.

Or possibly the case was distorted preventing a full seal on the gasket, allowing air to leak in. Most general pump prime problems I've seen were air leaks on the suction side.

It doesn't do DC amps with the clamp. Note the description says AC amps with no connection.

You shouldn't have to dial the mixture screws that far out. Maybe you have a vacuum leak?

No, only when you open the secondaries. You do have more options on the primary pump shot on Holleys than other vacuum secondary carbs. For instance on an Edelbrock (or Carter) you have three positions of adjustment on the pump lever arm and that's all. It adjusts stroke distance and velocity...

Agreed, hotter for a fouling plug. Unfortunately that looks like oil fouling. Can't fix that with a plug.

I think anyone that tells you that having a vacuum secondary carb is the same as a mechanical secondary, hasn't driven both. It's just theory in their heads. Vacuum secondaries just suck on a performance car. No way they can match the response of a double pumper. That said I have vacuum...

Hogwash! A speaker's power handling capability has nothing to do with how much power it takes to sound good. You won't get clipping until you crank up the volume to where it sounds distorted. You can hear clipping, so the gent who's driving his speakers with an underpowered amp, and says it...

I don't know, they look okay to me. The areas that wear aren't showing grooves you see when the lifters aren't spinning. I'd be more concerned about what looks like some corrosion going on. Maybe too much zinc? The areas of the cam that don't wear are starting to look like the cast iron that it is.

Just the opposite.

Care to share who does your work? I'm just down the street from you.

That's why I usually buy from Napa. I've given up on trying to find good parts by brand anymore. Moog was definitely crap last time I did suspension work. I can tell you that even replacement parts I bought directly from BMW were Chinese junk.

This may be splitting hairs, but I believe that a longer torsion bar of the same material and diameter would have a lower spring rate. The charts show the same spring rate for different lengths.

If it was mine I'd put an 850 double pumper on it no question.

You're not really losing any measurable horsepower when the AC isn't turned on. The deciding factor is how it looks under the hood.

I like the paint. Is that an original color?

Only time I threw a rod was street racing my 69 Cougar, 351W, stock rods. Don't know what RPM, but I didn't want to lose. Found the rod nut stripped and the cap broke, crank came around and pushed the rod through the pan. ARP bolts ever since.

Just as a related side note, many items in the car, lights, motors, etc. require a certain amount of power. Power being volts x amps, so if your voltage drops, the current draw goes up. With high current loads heating in the connector terminals goes up, and you can get to thermal runaway. The...