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Sounds awesome, however how much $$work$$ went into those 906's as compared to TF 240's to get them ready to bolt on?

They will if you turn down the mains from the RB's 2.749" to the B's 2.625" size. Rods journals are the same for both RB's and B's.

Definitely good to know. Are you aware of any suppliers that still offer the Hy-durometer bushings or a functional equivalent that's not fixed/solid?

Having seen the cool thread going with the registry for the 300 cars, is anyone familiar with a registry for the Police spec (A38) Monacos or Furys? If so, is there a link or curator for it?

Pardon my ignorance, but what does ISO stand for? Isolation pads between the leafs?

If it's an accurate 30K and no issues and complete then it's a $1,000 engine minimum around here. That's it having been pulled out already. If it's still in the chassis and needs pulled, you might get $200-300 and the person pulling it will almost assuredly destroy the motorhome hacking it...

I was considering doing the same with a motorhome 413 that I came across last year as the heads, waterpump, and exhaust manifolds are all useless so was going to have to source those anyway which starts adding $$ up. The 413's bottom end is sturdy as all get out and built for running at 3K for...

Yeah, that weiand intake was a relic, however it was set up as a 'period' build from the '70's so it's what may have likely been used back then. A Performer RPM would have undoubtedly been better across the board in comparison.

Yeah, the Thermoquad, when set up properly for the application should be on par with the Holly, but not sure how far in the weeds they cared to get with it before swapping.

Not sure if anyone has followed this build, but it looks to be a pretty well done, straightforward rebuild series on a mild 440. I think the final episode where they do the incremental changes and comparison retest (headers first, ignition 2nd, carb and intake 3rd, rockers 4th..) is the real...

The A-12's, I believe, but those we '69 1/2 only.

I would think that too, being that most pf the patrol models came that way. It's not yet drivable, nor does it have a tach (and I doubt a lock-up converter), but that's a tried-and-true method to determine. Was hoping it would be a tag off the diff cover (ala GM often did), but I'll jack it...

Hello Late model B-body folks, I'm trying to ID the ratio for the 9 1/4" diff on my '78 Monaco as I can't seem to fund any fender tag codes that correspond to the axle ratio. They came with either 3.21 or 2.71 and may have had limited Slip. Any way to tell w/o jacking the rear axle and...

The "A38" code on the fender tag is all it takes to confirm it's a "Police Model", which included the 140 mph Speedo, heavy duty suspension, reinforced body, and larger brakes, ect... The F33 code is a left hand spotlight so while it might not have been a precinct car, it was certainly ordered...

Agreed - If the block truly does need to be bored, then bore it the absolute minimum needed to have a clean, true bore to be serviceable. Not just for ability to "redo" it down the line if necessary, but to retain block strength, rigidity, avoid having hot spots and resultant overheating...

This is what inspired me to buy the '78 Monaco A38 that I have now; When I was in high school in 1991, my uncle, who owned a 1964 1/2 mustang (which I really wanted), mentioned that he acquired a 1978 Fury that was an old Oregon State patrol car complete with 440/727, blue paisley bucket seat...

If it's a cop-spec or "Heavy Duty" 440, it would have had the following (as per Chrysler's marketing literature): - Double Roller timing chain - Moly filled compression rings - Lubrite treated camshaft (with the same specs as the older high compression 440 magnums) - Heavier duty rocker arms -...

1 -7/8" is sufficient, and you will have enough clearance, but I would be sure to run a new or solid-conditioned starter so you don't have to pull them out to deal with changing it anytime soon. Also, and perhaps as important, is what the rest of the exhaust is comprised of as you will need at...

This is my question too. But if there's enough concern of improper things done with the build upon a cursory look over then it may be worth pulling apart and going through to make sure it will be at least reliable. A gasket kit isn't too cost prohibitive to do just that and have peace of mind.

OP, Wise plan; Sounds like you're going to run it as is and, as many have pointed out, if the rebuild was done right with forged pistons (even heavy ones) with factory forged rods and crank and balancing jobs, you shouldn't have any issues with the power you're intending to make (especially in...