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We've all used some version of the engine lift plate --- the one you bolt to the intake manifold for the engine lift. Every time I do this I get the willies because it's just 4 tiny bolts in an aluminum intake meant to hold a carburetor. How much weight is reasonable? I get it... "an engine"...

I put in a Hotchis rear and a Hellwig front. It's been great.

just in case you're curious... here is my 66 Charger's engine. ignore the weird fuel line swinging over the side :) in the process of experimenting with flow. i jammed oversized injectors in the sniper... so it demands a lot of go juice.

Take a look at these install instructions for your distributor. https://documents.holley.com/frm34418_mallory_unilitedist_installinstructions_revb.pdf Figure #1 is basically, your current setup. If you look at the Sniper 2 install instructions, you are essentially doing what is on page 18...

Good stuff! #4 Actually, for that distributor you needed to have the ballast resistor. So, you were good there. Do you have a test light and some form of volt/ammeter? Basically, check one of those wires at the resistor for power when the key is ON. Then, turn the key to START to see if it...

3. I'm told NOT to use the battery as a power source because of the way my car's charging system works. I did some research and believe what I was told. ---Yeah… you really want to connect directly to the battery. Frankly, your charging system is connected to it, but via other systems, etc...

First, read that doc @72ls5fla attached. Also, check out the sniper forum on forums.holley.com. For now, here are a few comments... (also, double check the terminal numbers I'm offering... all this should be in the PDM document and on the sticker on the back.) 3. I bought the PDM for the...

Dr.Diff. I'm a big fan... Never let me down.

What is the timing?

If the engine and tranny are in the car still... get under the engine and try to move the crank fore and aft just to check what level of movement/clearance you have (there should be a little). If you have none... something could be bound up. If you have a lot then that confirms the need to...

Looks great.. you'll have that on the road in no time! Don't over think it. Get it running and stopping and go have fun. You got a little frame repair there, but that's not a big deal. I have a 72 and it's in the same shape. Just finished building the engine and 727... now on to popping a rear...

Is that touching at full lock? How much interference is occurring once it makes contact? If it's minimal, and you're not road racing this 68, I wouldn't even worry about it.

I'd recommend... after you put in the helicoil (preferred) or timesert, I'd consider using a stud as opposed to a bolt moving forward. It puts less wear and tear on the insert when removing and installing heads in the future. The hole is blind (does not go into the water jacket) and the bolt is...

LOL!! A f-ton better than a screwdriver :) I'm getting one!

The floating pin is only easy to mess up because you fail to put the locking rings in or correctly. If so, the pin would slap the cylinder wall... but would that create a consistent knocking? and without spark? Dunno. As for press fit... it's super easy to jack that up because it's easy to...

Ok... cool... we can move away from the flywheel, fuel pump, pulleys, and drive gear/bushing. - As for the oil pump. I'm all about the gasket because if there is a leak, well you won't know other than low oil psi. Nevertheless, if the internal and/or the outer rotors are worn badly or loose...

@72RobCharger ... ok... I'm going crazy over here :) In summary... just generalizing where we're at... - timing is ok and no change if advanced or retarded (seems to "reduce" the pre-ignition concern) - no change when pulling plug wires one at a time (seems to eliminate rod or piston problems...

wow... ok... you can definitely hear it. If I was right there with you I would... 1) check timing to see what total is just to be sure. 2) start pulling plug wires cylinder by cylinder and reving to see if it goes away There is a tiny part of me that thinks it's in the piston (wrist pin...

If the crank is a bit "lose" fore and aft the engine will still last - in fact, some high horsepower motors will have a touch of extra clearance on the thrust bearing. But if too much eventually that thrust bearing will give in to the beating and it will progressively get louder. The engine will...

Hmm... i know it's crazy... but is there a crack in the torque converter?