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Just for giggles, check your ballast resistor.

Current switches

I'm in the midst of replacing my instrument cluster with a custom one and I was wondering whether anyone had switched out the factory headlight switch and/or wiper switch with an aftermarket version. I find the originals rather big, bulky and heavy for my liking. I'm also not sure why the...

This is on a 1966 Belvedere II. Engine is not original. It's 360. It's mounted under the hood on the driver's side fender well. It's been on the car since I bought it five or more years ago. That looks like a transistor and it's connected to the negative side of the battery. The connector has...

Not one of the factory gauges in my 66 Belvedere II was working. I got tired of having to move my keys to see the auxiliary gauges, so I took some inspiration from a reply to a post by Chris Gleason (thanks Chris) and bought some aftermarket gauges for the cluster. Making a new backing plate was...

I've been a Makita guy for years. Can't compare it to anything else because I've never had anything else. The damn things won't break!

It means "beautiful view"

This perked my ears up. I have the same issue only in a 360. Previous owner has no idea what cam it has, but it definitely has one. Of course, I wouldn't know what cam it has if you handed it to me.

I have a set from Shars. According to my Starrett mic they are spot-on accurate. I think I paid about $70 for the set.

Problem solved! It wasn't the fan, or the aluminum radiator. It was just stubborn air in the system. Took forever to get it out. I finally lifted the radiator out of its cradle as far as I could and got the last bit of air out of it. Thanks for all the suggestions!

Yep! That was it. This thing was stubborn. Each time I drove it it would burp a little bit more. Finally got to the point where temp stayed around 190.

I think you hit the nail on the head with the "burp". I thought I had all the air out, but I was wrong. I raised and lowered the front of the car while running. It burped again and lowered radiator level 1.5" I topped it off and drove it again twice as far. Still running hot at 230 but didn't...

You may be right, but I think I'll try a few other tricks first. I see an awful lot of aluminum radiators out there that seem to be working just fine.

So it sounds like I should... 1. Make sure there no remaining air in the system. I've got plenty of good hills around here. I'll get it warmed up and park on a hill facing uphill. maybe do this a couple of times. 2. Get rid of the electric fan, go back to factory fan. I don't have a clutch on...

The hole in the thermostat thing is a new one to me. This is to let trapped air from the engine to get into the radiator when the thermostat is closed? Correct? If that's the case, I'm not sure it would help as I verified the thermostat was open before I drove around the neighborhood. That is to...

Yes! It's a puller. May not be pulling enough, but I would think that at speed it wouldn't matter. The natural airflow through the system would cool it even without a fan at all.

Well, no! Not quite. I replaced a system that wasn't working for one that I was told should work. I might put the factory blade back on though.

Yes, I'm starting to question that fan myself. Once I'm absolutely sure I have all the air out of the system, I'll go back to the factory fan to see if it makes a difference. Summit makes a shroud for this radiator, but it's too small for the factory fan. I guess I could make my own, but I'd...

I was wondering about the lower hose. It's not collapsed when I check it, but it might be possible that it collapses at higher RPM. I'll check that! If that doesn't pan out, I might try going back to the factory fan. Thanks!

Fill cap is above engine and I have a surge tank. I'll check on the air. Maybe I'll park on an hill facing uphill.