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i'm interested as well, especially for a sending unit that will act with higher readings when cold, then lower readings when up to temperature, as well as a lower reading at hot idle which then increases as rpm's raise. :drinks:

love that wagon ! :drinks::thumbsup:

ahh.......er.......well.........don't really know what to say about that........... :rofl:

do NOT use standard taps in the bolt holes as they will have a tendency to cut the threads oversize ! use thread CHASERS instead. these will make sure your threads are clean and correct in thread size and pitch. i can't emphasize this enough ! just some friendly advice from a 50 year working...

pearl white is the original top color, and that top is still on it now, although it is technically shot. :drinks:

that does look pretty good ! thank you sir ! :thumbsup:

the black looks like way too much, and the tan doesn't do it for me. can you do a body color one ? really appreciate the effort ! thanks ! :drinks:

that may be a good option ! :drinks:

i was thinking the same thing, that's why i was wondering about the tan top. i wished i had photo chop so i could get an idea what the different top colors would look like. can anyone help me with that ? TIA if it's possible ! :drinks:

my charger has it's original pearl white top, and it's cracked badly, starting the dreaded rust bubbles above the windshield and back window. if i can find someone around here that can replace it and do a good job, i am figuring to get it done. as this car will never be restored by me, i am...

i have 2 early 392 hemis on the shelf that i have had for over 50 years. they were pulled from a 57 imperial 4 door with 57k original miles, and a 58 imperial crown 2 door with 99k original miles. at the time, i had the 58 running, and it sounded good. i never heard the 57 run, as it needed a...

luckily, i have a stash of dimmer switches from A,B, and C bodies to choose from. no chinesium here ! :drinks:

that's because of "the babes and booze"............. :lol: :drinks:

my bumpers have the guards removed and the holes filled with regular bumper bolts. did that way back when i first got my car in 1970. just this spring, i removed that crossmember type piece just because. :drinks:

71 up[?] pedal assembly like that will work. A,B, and C body pedal assemblies are almost identical as shown, and should be super easy to find. i also believe the throttle cable attachment is the same as the floor mount pedal, so no mods needed to attach your original cable to the suspended...

why disconnect the battery ? it's only a few days till july the 4th.............. :lol: [ i couldn't help myself.........just funnin' ya........] :drinks:

the headlight dimmer switch went bad in my charger once, causing the headlights to go out. [at night naturally] that was a real "treat", as i was motoring down the road at a "good clip"......... new dimmer switch, and all is good. luckily, no melty wires to replace ! :drinks:

also being looking at closer to 80 than 70, i need to quit doing "stunts" that are supposed to show how "tough" i ain't these days............ :lol: :drinks:

ampmeter still connected, and doesn't show much movement now. [i installed a volt gauge and it reads the same as the digital volt meter at the battery.] i stuck my hand up there, [the back of the amp gauge] and with the car running, the harness has no heat issues i could feel. what other...

i believe it was mentioned the center bore was 2.750. is that the wheel center bore or the cap center bore ? regardless, it's no wonder the combination won't fit over the hub, because that is a ford register size. the mopar register size is 2.810. :drinks: