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You can use a reducer in the vac line to steady the needle. Sounds like you're good though.

It's very possible that you uncovered a problem that was going to happen anyway. Better to happen in the garage than on the road. Can you at least crack the lines on the master to see what is going on there? You originally said you wanted to bleed the system. Why? because of the wheel cylinder...

What's the pedal doing (hard/soft/going all the way down or stuck at the top of its travel)? Perhaps crack some lines and see where you have flow and where you don't. Start from the master and work back.

I'd say #1 is making sure the transmission shift point adjustment is right (or at least close). Did you install the trans? If not, did your mechanic at least get it close? If the 1-2 is late or early you have some adjusting to do. That will kill a trans quick.

I know that modern "smart" battery chargers tend to fail out batteries prematurely so that you'll buy a new one. People just toss them not knowing they can be saved. I have resuscitated many (not all) batteries from our local dump; everything from car/lawn&garden down to alkaline batteries.. I...

Should be running.. There are good youtube videos that show how to do it. Search on Chrysler Master Tech Power Steering Checks and Adjustments for your year..

Like WileE said, observe the engine running when in the dark. Let your eyes adjust and look for hard arcs. You will see some but you're looking for trouble spots that should be relatively bright. You may have a plug arcing to the head where you can't see it. And stay clear from the engine when...

HB shifted and you are overadvanced/retarded? I've seen it more than once.. any progress?

Pull a plug or two after you've run it to temp and see what they look like. Were you trying to remedy a problem when you rebuilt it or was it running fine before? Are you absolutely sure the wires are installed correctly per firing order?

Give us some details please... did you replace the needle and seat? Did you check/double check the float level? Rebuild kits will give you a gauge to do that with. Is the engine hot/choke off (confirmed) when it does this (as shown in the video)? What is the vac reading when it is idling nice?

You introduced many new parts into the equation which may be the cause of this issue. I never trust new parts. I have been burned too many times. You may want to use process of elimination to see if that changes anything. Per post #6, what do the plugs look like? Are you getting a sputter out of...

My Newport had factory undercoating and it does dry out and cake off after so many years. Not all of it but a good chunk of it. See if it is a new application and if they are trying to hide something. In my case, I think the undercoating helped minimize rust as it was a northeastern car.

Care to elaborate? Failed war sounds like a lot of sht has been thrown at it.. Do you have another carb to go back too for testing?

Coolant looks good. Your plugs say you are running on the rich side though (on all cylinders). Have you looked into that?

You might have dust on the armature where the needle moves. I have seen it on a multi meter where the needle would move erratically and give bad readings. The needle would stick and it did take out the internal fuse on the meter once. Take it apart and blow some compressed air on the internals...

You'll want to see a steady needle between 17 and 20/21 indicated on the gauge. Make sure you have a good vac source that is on at idle. There are many threads on here that detail how to hook up.

I see what looks like black tape on the pcv hose at the carb. Get a good hose on there. Check the spacer, timing and carb mixture as suggested and make sure all of your lines are good. Then throw a vacuum gauge on it and start it. That should tell you something..

Is that a rebuilt unit? Or was it brand new? Best of luck in getting it straightened out.

You sure it is not because you are not used to power drums? They are grabby by nature. If they are dangerously sensitive, that would be different..

How about looking at the owner's manual? I was surprised to see 10w30 and 5000 mile intervals for my 65 383! Of course, a modified engine may require different. Have you looked at an owner's manual for your car? Is the engine modded at all?