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For sale - New made in the USA Steele front and rear window rubber for 66/67 B Body Sedans. Will not fit a hardtop. Part numbers 70-1778-50 and 40-0482-81. $250 plus actual shipping. Please PM on the board. Located in Cincinnati.

I would fix your title to make it more specific. I'm sure Bill with the black 66 or 67 Satellite would be happy to share pics how an original hemi sat in those cars.

RIP Brian. Seen the Beach Boys countless times. Maybe 15 to 20 times. I can think of two definite times that Brian was performing. The first was in Hartford in the 70's before the coliseum collapsed. It was a time period that I believe he really was not touring with the band, but for...

I bought some once but was never able to bring myself to using them. Always eventually got them to seal the old fashioned way.

They are not hard to install, but sometimes the flares are tricky to keep from leaking especially if you have to flare them yourself. You do need to evacuate the system well. I shoot for 50 microns which I achieve regularly on soldered joints but struggle to get to on flared mini-split joints...

And to show how well my shop is insulated, its been in the upper 70's to 80's here. Not been in the shop for a few days. Went in there yesterday and it was a very comfortable 72 degrees. The AC is not on, but dehumidifier is running (2 of them - one in the main bay and one in the car storage...

Really depends on how well it is insulated. My shop is in Cincinnati and is 5600 sq ft. Very well insulated. It is way more difficult to heat than cool in Cincy. My 5 ton (conventional heat pump) does just great, and it does not have backup heat hooked up. Yes - you are in a much hotter...

I am pretty sure I have spares I do not need. PM me if interested.

I need to get my furnace running to properly heat treat my swedge cutters. I killed a cutter doing the 2 drums and it could of used a little more on the last ones.

And I confirmed from the parts book that the knuckle (spindle) is the same for 67 and 68 and there is only one so I assume all the 10" hubs would work.

PM me

Drums/hubs always confused me. Mopar only sold them as an assembly. In 67 and 68 the parts book shows 3 options for 10 x 2 1/2 drums/hubs. No idea on the differences, but assume the hubs are all interchangeable - don't really know. In 68, 2 of the 3 are the same part numbers as 67.

Did you cut the swedge before you tried separating? I made some tools and still have a couple 1/2" left. I have a pair from a 67 coronet. I would assume the hubs would be the same. I can separate the hubs from the drums. $20 plus actual shipping for the pair.

Memories. Got the race car 67 Coronet patch panels from them (in person) circa 1988. The panels were not very good. LOL!

Do you know who Lake Speed Jr. is? He is a tribologist and one of the interviewers....... https://engineperformanceexpo.com/mini-series/episode-53-engine-builder-interview-tony-bischoff/

Ever watch an oil sight glass for a sleeve bearing where you increase flow and pressure and all of a sudden it starts foaming? I have. No foaming at lower flow and pressure. Does the same thing happen inside an engine? How do you know? Like I said, talk to a tribologist if you want to get...

And the performance oil pump drives vs stock are heat treated and have a very generous radius to reduce stress risers because?????????

That is just not true. You have to put it in proper context. An example of high oil pressure is the added significant stress on the oil pump drive. For those that have experienced pump drive failure know what I am talking about. Again - as long as you have oil film additional oil pressure...

You are seriously overthinking it and are worrying over nothing. Do some research on lubrication. As long as you have a film to prevent metal to metal contact, additional pressure will not help, and in fact most likely hurts you. My 574 was built by Tony Bischoff. Don't get better than Tony...

Well said.