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Welcome from the whine country. Californians whine about the weather, even when it's great. :lol:

I cannot tell for sure, but can you clarify if these are the 1970 lighter color, or 1971+ darker color argent silver?

the payment method is key. using a safe (for the buyer) method is the best way to go. Like standard PayPal or through eBay (same thing, maybe) when I ask those who only want PayPal Friends & Family (no buyer protection) the seller claims it's for tax purposes, or some other dubious reason...

A breeder once told me a calico male is worth lots of $$$$

I am pretty sure they are 1-1/4-inch... edit: perhaps 1.2605 inches

A long shot, indeed. I wish you the best of luck. FYI, the oh "O" in the VIN is likely supposed to be a zero "0" and if you correct the title, a google search may have a better shot to lead someone here.

you want to turn the engine in the direction it normally operates. from memory, standing in front of the engine looking rearward, this is clockwise. you can operate the starter solenoid on the fender well (using the screwdriver trick) momentarily to get a gist of which way the engine normally...

There are two basic adjustment goals listed in the FSM for the OEM throttle pressure linkage setup. 1. At idle, the throttle pressure lever is all the forward, and at it's minimum setting. 2. At WOT, the throttle pressure lever is all the way back, as it's maximum setting. If you've confirmed...

The smoke from these devices is actually a fog, not a smoke generated by the burning of something. It's designed to be safe to pipe through fuel vapor systems.

Yes, it sure should be. It could be an early one. If the number(s) weren't filled in by painting over, then I'm guessing this transmission never had application numbers stamped to it. My notes on transmission ID numbers suggests the early-early 1962-1964 727 Torqueflites (aka LoadFlite) did...

To clarify, you're seeking more than 1 horsepower per cubic inch. As others have said, one recipe for more power is more airflow, through the carb, intake, heads and exhaust. But without compression, you're being held back. And without increasing the displacement with a stroked crank, again...

they are actually pretty cheap on Amazon. Sure, made in china, but a great tool to have for this sort of thing.

next time your under there, look for that PK part number, so you know what you're dealing with.

another test is to take the car outside to ventilate for a few hours, with the windows, hood and trunk open. open the garage to vent. Once it's all vented, put the car away (maybe without running, if possible), and begin checking every hour or so. sniff around. if there is a leak, you can...

My garage is not insulated, and I live in California with temperate weather. That said, on hot days, the temperature swings from 90F in the garage to 60F at night. This is enough to cause my 1970 car to emit fumes, and I'm pretty sure there are no obvious leaks. Newer cars have a charcoal...

Fall Fling is coming up, though it seems smaller than the Spring one.

This may be important to confirm, because if you have a late model (>1978) transmission valve body, you may want to use the later switch. An early model (prior to 1968 back up lamps) may not work, either. A number greater than PK4028XXX could be a late model. Before PK2892XXX may be an early...

yes

well done. any hardware store pipe-threaded plug may hold, until you find an OEM-looking one. As others have said, it doesn't need a great seal of torque to seal. You can hand thread your existing one back in there, and hammer off the socket to recover. PTFE tape works pretty well to seal...

after posting, I remembered I recently treated this battery hold-down bracket from my wife's Chrysler Pacifica. After soaking overnight, I rinsed it under a faucet. But it sat a few days on the bench. I just snapped the after pictures. Another factor about the citric acid formula, is it...