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Thank you all for your help, I have a timken 7216 getting delivered tomorrow! Hopefully putting the new one on is easier than removing the original one today!

A little hard to tell but I'm gonna go with 742 here....

Finally getting around to changing this leaky rear pinion seal and after a tough fight, I finally got it removed. The original one was still in place with a part number showing 1828719. Went to Oreilly to get a replacement and they gave me this...

This is a picture of the neutral safety switch (makes sense why my buddy thought thats what it was) You can see the vshaped connector with the purple and white wire. I don't have back up lights on the car so I'll look for the wiring harness for backup lights and should be good to go!

one purple, one black/white. Sort of a V-shaped connection. Side note: My brake lights work now! Just need to figure out what this connection is lol

Thanks! Gonna go try that! In the meantime, what should be plugged into the firewall plug where these are currently connected?

Both of those wires are plugged into a port going through my firewall. My buddy says those have something to do with the neutral safety switch which leaves NO loose wires or anything in my harness that would be long enough to connect to the brake light switch. I'm soooo confused because my...

Hello all! Happy Sunday! Wanted to update everyone. Lower control arm bushing were blown out. Replaced those and discovered lower control arm (passenger side) was cracked in half. Scoured the internet for LCA with sway bar brackets. They didn't exist. I ordered the brackets separately and had...

Update: Car still drives like its on ice. In the front end I replaced inner & outer tie rods tie rod sleeves pitman arm idler arm Hoped that would solve it...Nope... Took it to a GOOD alignment shop. He ran it on the machine TWICE and tried to align by eye and the car still basically drives...

Update. The pinging is gone. But when I get up to 30-35 mph the rear wheels start to screech and break loose in a fishtail style. Can only assume I need to replace all the rear bushings and check the gear oil. Hopefully that gets me right so I can finally test this thing out!

Only using the handheld. 15 initial / 42 cruise and 36 WOT

Update: I've got the car running and driving but having an issue dialing in on the proper timing to alleviate it running rich and pinging in the pipes. 440. Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads CompCams Xtreme Energy 224/230 Hydraulic Flat Cam Holley Sniper Dual Quad Sniper Holley Hyperspark Kit...

Update: Still can’t get the IAC situation where I want it but I also believe the timing might be a hair off. Drove the car for the first time today even though it was only to get the car off the street and into the driveway. That’s a MAJOR milestone and appreciate all of the incredible input...

Alright guys, installed the Holley Hyperspark system and everything seems to be tamed down (rpms at 950 instead of 1300 previously but sniper is set to 750)! However, when I went to put it in gear, my headers are burning up my shift cable. This will now be the second time this week I replace it...

It's the latter. Xtreme Energy cam not the thumpr. Not sure how I posted that link

I'm actually gonna head to summit and grab this Hyperspark EFI kit. Seems excessive, I know but it will clean up the wires and should be able to stabilize and learn without the need for manual setting. I'd much rather get rid of the old points system and ballast resistor at this point...

Ok everyone, got an update. Adjusted the timing to 30 degree range as requested. Still stalling when shifting into reverse but it rolls back a few inches before it stalls! Car is idling at 1200-1300 rpm. Trying to get that idle down and get the IAC set on the sniper and hoping it should work...

Deal!

This is what I'm hoping for. However, running the EFI system lets me know its definitely not vacuum. I'll be adjusting the timing asap and getting back to y'all!

Electrical is the LAST thing I'm hoping for lol