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Yes If I hold the bottom shaft, I'm able to fully rotate the top shaft.

For historical value, here's a picture of the distributor.

Oh no, the pin is in place. The distributor shaft spins freely with the rotor and reluctor secured.

Well........sooooo um I was able to get some spark, but I pretty sure the distributor reluctor / rotor should not be able to spin freely.

It's actively raining but as soon as it lets up all put a jumper wire on the coil. The control module is definitely grounded. And the battery cables are an acceptable condition.

Very helpful, amazing feedback. Thank you for your expertise. It's far from a lost cause.

The previous owner had quite a few spare parts in in the trunk. For good measure I installed the 4-pin from the trunk and retested everything. Same results as before.

It's raining, so pictures might have to wait.

Maybe its fake or not functional. Assuming I mistaken and I have a functional 4 pin, any other clues? What information do you need or I can provide?

I was following/trying the test procedures here. 10:45

Right now the battery is too weak to check the volts coming out from the pick up coil.

The control module is putting 0.5 volts to the pickup coil. I was able to make the coil spark using a test light and the spark tester. In the Arizona daylight it did seem like a weak spark. Just for good measure I did change the silicone coil wire.

Is this square box on the firewall? Or the switch on the column? Note: I have a Saginaw column.

During my testing I took the connection off. 5 pins. Do I need five pins? I don't know. I didn't set up this conversion. But I usually unless I know otherwise; I replace apples with apples. Coil is part #2-5195.

Not really new to Mopar, but it's been a long time. It has two terminals. While researching my issue people were calling the two terminals "single" and the four terminals "dual'. Yes it's a five pins. Five wires. It's set up like the Mopar performance conversion.

282 ohms need to be replaced?

1.5 ohms.

I do appreciate the help.

Yes I checked it and it was getting power, but just so we're aligned, how would you like me to check it or verify that it works? I will tell you it doesn't look like the OE ballast resistors. It may be some silly performance resistor. It kind of looks like an MSD resistor.

A little background. It's a fathers on project. Would I take at across the country? No. Did it start with minimal effort? Yes. Could it be driven around the block just to move the fluids around? Yes.