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Thanks all for the help. I ended up getting it with an extra set of hands and lifting up both the front and rear some more.

Yeah I would do that but there wasn’t enough room to fit it onto my chest under the car. The exhaust was against my forehead.

I’ll try that

Thank you! Good tips. With the old carrier out, do you see any issue with using the rear end to pick the car up further with a jack? Not sure how much structure the carrier gives the housing.

Yes I have 6 ton stands. Right now they are under the axle not extended. I can probably first try lifting the front and putting my ramps under there tires to see if I can roll the carrier in up towards the front. I don’t always feel good working under stands extended too far.

It’s just the carrier Im putting in. I’ll have to get the car up higher so I can roll it under on a floor Jack. I’ll see if I can get it to fit under tonight. My exhaust also hangs kind of low so I can’t go through the side or under the rear end with it on a Jack currently.

Any tips on putting in a rear diff by yourself? Car is up on Jack stands, but there’s not a ton of room under there. I got the old diff out, which I just dropped onto some lumber. Trying to the lift the new rear differential into place laying on my back with it by my side is not going well, just...

Got the brake lights working. Dirty terminals in the fuse box. Only thing not working now is the rear lights for the 4 ways. Front lights blink with 4 way switch on. I see refurb’d switches on eBay, but no new switches, and the ones for sale are kinda pricey for a switch. Is this switch just one...

I realize the 4 way switch doesn’t have power cause the 4 was flasher doesn’t have power (power fed through the flasher to the switch). The turn signal flasher works, has power. The turn signals work as they should with the new switch.

The 4 way flasher works, I tested it. Problem is right now the 4 way flasher doesn’t even have power to it. Same with the brake light switch, no power to it. The 4 way flasher switch doesn’t have power to it either (checked the red wire). These places did have before previously.

No power to the brake light switch, no power to the 4 way blinker. Trying to trace on the wiring diagram where those get power from.

The 4 way flasher still is not working, but it wasn’t before and the brake lights still worked. I rigged up a switch with one power input (red wire into emergency flasher connector) and 3 outputs when the switch is met (to the 3 other ports on the connector). This did not make the 4 ways work...

I installed a new turn signal switch. Turn signals work, but brake lights don’t, when they did before. I have also worked on the 4 way flasher switch, but before I started touching the switches, the brake lights worked.

Well I got impatient and rigged up individual switches for each direction, but I missed my appointment anyway lol.

No, but I will. There were 4 broken off pins so those are the ones I replaced.

Jumpered the flasher, no lights still. Looks like it’s the switch.

Should the turn signal blinker always be hot with the key on?

Agreed. The short only happened when I used the right turn signal. I could see the charge drop on my voltmeter only when I did the right turn. The left turn signal seemed fine.

Is there a way I could rig up a regular switch to get it to work until a new switch comes in the mail? Not sure if I can run a hot somewhere with a toggle switch to get each side to work. I’m assuming I can’t get the actual switch until after my inspection appointment.

Do you happen to have a link to the free online one?