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Mine started doing this. Just unbolted them, wire brushed the sliding surfaces, a tiny bit of silicone brake grease, and bolt back together. Problem solved.

I've see several people test various modern lifters against decades old NOS, and they're the same as far as hardness. Machining, however, a different story. A number of lifters were surfaced very poorly, wrong angles, and inconsistent surface. I used to regrind lifters just out of highschool...

What is real measuring? What is using gauge blocks, snap gauges, feeler gauges, or a machinist scale? I measured the red gauge, which fits perfectly between the piston and cylinder head surface. It's not measuring the open step. You can see the head gasket surface. TDC was verified with a piston...

I was estimating about 15,000 miles on the cam. I have a stroker motor for the car, but wanted to put this motor in my Dart. I found the original cam and I numbered lifters, so for the price of a couple gaskets, I'm going to take a shot at putting it back in. I tell you, although I'd rather...

I found the lifters that were in the motor, and I numbered them, so while I wasn't excited to try breaking in another flat tappet cam, or dumping money into a turd with a roller cam, I'm happy to put the original cam back in and get it running while I'm putting the other motor together.

Combustion chamber shape plays a big part. Everyone should have heard of quench by now. Another very important factor is the intake closing event, which determines how much air gets trapped for the compression stroke. People are running compression ratios which would sound insane to street...

The Parkerizing is worn all the way across on the flanks, and most of the base circle on that cylinder, far left. The flat lobe is third from the left.

Here's another lifter. It's starting to concave, but still looks like the others visually. Smooth with similar wear pattern, but the others are still convex.

Here's the cam

Here's the lifter

More like 7.28:1. Got a better measurement of my deck clearance, .140". That's the thickness of the red gauge I used, and 88cc estimate for the 906 heads.

Mine's a 383, though.

"The pistons are .155" in the hole, which means, that's 7.5:1 so after I put the heads on with the composition gasket instead of the factory steel shim, 7.4, so what's a tenth of a point between friends right?

The Mopar had 50ft-lbs more torque below 400rpm, then matched it on up. Grew up hearing longer crank makes more torque, but this is the opposite, and giving up nothing for HP. I see head porters and engine builders feel sorry for us that the "good" aftermarket Mopar heads flow well for small...

125-130psi

Here's what the piston top looks like. Matches NOS pistons I've seen. Would have thought they'd have valve notches.

Even low compression 440s have some balls to them. I've had several 440 cars, but this is my first 383, so I have no idea what they are supposed to do. I would think the bore stroke ratio would make it a high RPM HP machine having a shorter stroke than a 350 Chevy.

The guy I got the car from was a Chevy guy and knew nothing other than Chargers are cool. It was sitting for 18 years before that, and it's a '70 motor in a '69 Charger. Have no idea other than what I can see. That is a .060" wire. Looks easily more than twice it's thickness from piston to...

It has two cameras, one forward, and one out the side. There's a mirror attachment to screw on the front, but it doesn't work for ****, so get the two lens version if you're thinking about it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9JR3N4W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

You don't see that I'm using an endoscope to see how far in the hole my pistons are, and using a .060" wire to estimate the measurement? I thought I explained that. Using 2.5D is .150". Do you think 88CC is a poor estimate for a 906 combustion chamber? This is what that comes out to.