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Hey I'll play until he finds this. 69runner made a political thread a year or so ago and I made the mistake of not agreeing with his opinion. for that he banned me for 3 days, I broke no rules and said nothing out of line. I haven't been back until now because I'm tired of the " please come...

69runner is a little nazi douche. I've asked you 100 times to take my name of your " please come back " list. as long as a loser like you can be a mod I'm not interested. just do it you still have a half dozen members you don't need me so stop bugging me.

That's more rust than I've ever tried to deal with, that would send me off screaming like my teeth were on fire. I'd say 3500 would be a decent offer.

Yes I'm running the 237's, and I can't remember what thickness head gasket . My cam is a 288/296 -10H Ultradyne, lift 488/507 T.E. - .050 9.5 41.5 49.5 1.5 duration at .006 -.288/.288...

You could try some motor honey or something once in a while it helps. if you're going to keep and drive the car I'd plan on doing it right . all it does is make the oil thicker in a sense. If you need rings on an old engine that means you need a rebuild, probably just figure on that and...

I checked it out with one of the supposed mopar experts who sells parts and he said there is only one set of trim vinyl top or not. My skill with fabric is weak enough I have a guy do all my stuff like this, I've helped him and learned a little. the number one thing he says you must do is...

15x7 mopar rally wheels are 4 1/4' backspace. I have them on my challenger and I've seen them on B Body cars so I know that works, not sure what else you could get away with. 295.50's are 1/10" taller than 245/60 tires and would be even more than that with 235/60's. it's the overall hight...

Those are about as wide as you can go, the 295's fill up the fender well pretty good width wise but aren't over tall as long as you like the look it should be OK. if you want to play it safe 235's up front and 255's or 275's in the rear seem to be more common. Yes 50 is correct, the 295/50's...

For what you're talking about I'd give seriuous thought to KB hypertecics , guys in my area have been running them for some time on mild race and street motors with great results. either cam you have will work butv I'd go with the 274, it sounds like you've got a good plan though I think...

I agree I wouldn't go with much more stall unless you drop your gears more for street use. a mild 383 isn't going to be that impressive anyway so don't expect to cure it with a stall alone. You'll get more good out of gears like 3.91's than stall converters and high gears would be my take...

1 and2 are for access to align the car, not only do you need them but when the engine is in you don't really see them. #3 is I think for the clutch rod but I'm not fimiliar with your year. Not many holes are there you don't need, but since I like the original look I guess I've never thought...

The 275/60 is a little tall in my opinion, the 295/50 is maybe too wide but it fits fine, and not as tall and I prefer that. I think all 68-70 B bodies have the same tire and wheel clearance but I'm not positive of that, if it fits one it should fit the other. The mopar rallye 15x8...

I suppose but when a guy asks about doing a concours restoration on a 68 Satellite 4 door you need to be honest, by the time you get the body work done you're upside down in the car. as long as he's fine with that then go for it , having fun is what it's all about and as long as you never change...

My 2 bits is if you like the car fix it up and drive it, just remember since it is a 4 door what ever amount you put into it is pretty much gone because the resale will be zip. build it for yourself and figure it's yours. I don't want to sound like a snob or like I'm putting your car down...

I['ve been looking at options for some time for a '70 Bee myself. What I've decided on is repop 15x7 ralley wheels up front with 245/60's and 15X8's in the rear with 295/50's . That gives a wide look without looking punky, the other route that seems very popular is the same wheels with...

I'm not a computer wiz by any means and I don't know how to paste stuff but if google " timing and vacuum advance 101 " you'll find a great read on the subject. somewhere I have the original full article and the authors name but you can get he gist of it on bronco.com and other sites. Don...

The way it was originally designed and FBO set ups require is to run manifold vacuum. ported vac advance started in the smogger era and isn't the best for most performance engines. Set your initial wherever you like it and then hook your vac advance up to manifold vac, your engine will...

From the looks of those pictures as near as I can tell it lines up with the bottom of the drip rail end, it's hard to tell for sure but I'll tape it there and see what it looks like. From what I'm tols all 68-70 B bodies took the same trim except for Chargers, not sure if that's correct or...

I'm putting a vinyl top on my '70 Bee and it's not real clear where the trim between the rear window and the end of the drip rail goes. I can pretty well see where it mates up to the rear window but where does it go on the drip rail end piece? if the bottom of the trim goes about 3/8' above the...

Has anyone tried 245/60-15 tires on the front or 295/50-15's on the rear of a '70 B Body? 255's look a little small but 275/60's look too tall. If they would fit it seems they might be a good way to fill the fenderwell without getting too tall.