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Well, I built in my basement a new engine all computer controlled. Based on a 400-block a 512 with 12.4 static compression running only on E85. Stealth heads, M1 intake converted to port injection. Billet steel main caps, and girdle...(originally planned a double turbo engine...but time and...
I have the Lunati xxxxx703LK flat tappet cam and lifter kit, Hughes roller rockers kit with 1.6 ratio, chrome moly 3/8 pushrods, 440Source Stealth heads with Compcam 927-16 springs (112 lbs @1.900, 355 lbs @ 1.200", spring rate 347 lbs/in).
Engine has been running I guesstimate 40 hours since...
High compression 512 built for E85 only, and running only on E85. All home built by myself with various bits and pieces. Full sequential control by the MegaSquirt MS3X engine management. Very powerful engine, revs up like a motorcycle :thumbsup:
Me too, with a modern 100 Amp alternator, and I'm not worried.
Like Nacho said, there is nothing wrong with the ammeter itself, just lack of maintenance and a loose nut has overheated the connection.
Just for your info I'm using the 8920 adapter having my engine management system (MegaSquirt) driving the original Charger 1967 tach. It all works well...with one significant drawback...the 8920 unit is emitting a fairly loud, and annoying, buzzing sound.
I will replace the MSD 8920 with a...
Someone brought up the point of resistance and more amps... The way it works is that with a loose connection the resistance increases due to the bad electrical connection. The increased resistance at the point of the bad connection will increase the heat generated according to the formula Power...
I'm using a 100 Amp modern alternator in my 67 Charger, all going thru the original ammeter.
The ammeter is very good to have, I know if current is going in or out. The wiring is beefed up alternator-ammeter-battery, and straight thru the bulkhead connector.
Important with stiff wires is to...
It's now quite some time since I was working on the headlight motors but I seem to remember you may see up towards 8 Amps each. Slow turning motor will pull more amps than a faster one so keep things lubricated and nice to minimize current.
If you compare the BTUs...why is nitromethane giving such huge power numbers in dragsters???? Nitromethane has very low BTUs, but AFR=2...i.e. lots of fuel injected, way more than any gasoline fueled engine can take, and way more BTUs...
Basically the same with E85, lower BTUs than gasoline but...
In the 66-67 Charger the only lamps/bulbs you have in the dashboard are the 2x turn signal indicators, 1x hi beam, 1x rotating head lamp indicator. The rest is all electroluminescent.
If you have the electrical schematics that will be a great help in restoring the dashboard.
I am using the original amp gauge with a modern 100 Amp alternator. Upgraded wiring. The original amp gauge is a heavy build, it can handle big currents without problems, nothing in it can break easily. The only potential issue is too thin wiring to the amp gauge, dirty/loose connections at the...
I guess finding spares will be difficult. The question is what do you need? The clock is not complicated, usually just a matter of a little lubrication and cleaning up of the contact points.
BTW, the 66 clock is EL, the 67 clock is bulb I've been told...I have a 66 clock in my 67...
Strictly mathematically E85 will make 11-27% more power than pump gas, most hi performance engines seem to see a 10-15% increase. To get the power increase you have to understand the different AFR required with E85.
Personally I've never heard of any oiling down the cylinders with E85...
The E85 is an excellent fuel, high octane, high power and good cooling. Corrosion characteristics overall are similar to pump gas. With EFI the fuel consumption will increase approx 20-30%. Build high static compression, bleed off dynamic compression if you need with a suitable cam, and you have...
A few years since I did Pertronix myself but if I remember correctly...The shortest one will give you the biggest advance...the longest will give you the smallest advance...
Unfortunately the volt reading is an indication only and one can only guess which way the current is going.
A voltmeter is cheap and easy to install compared to an ammeter.