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Others here know more….but if you have a driveshaft that’s the correct length and attaches that “trunion” (?) tail shaft, I think you’re in good shape….maybe the shifter needs changing? Maybe not?
You need pedals, a tang (?) to weld on the frame to connect to the z-bar (linkage), make sure your...
I just did this with “decent” results. I used a 1-component moisture cure polyurethane and some hardware store wood clamps. I think you could soften the vinyl VERY CAREFULLY with a heat gun (???)
I believe that means one or more bearing was .001” oversized from the factory. If it has an “x” thenone or more bearings is .010” oversized from the factory. Looks like 5,2,3 are .010” oversized (not sure if that’s rods or mains….I think it’s right at the front of the engine section in the...
I don’t know what carburetor you have. Check online for the idle mixture screw. The CRC stuff is supposed to clean catalytic converters and I’m not sure if it works.
I just read an emissions tip that said high CO means it’s running rich. Is your California test at idle? On a treadmill? The article mentions a dirty air filter & another poster’s idea about leaning out the idle mixture screws (more air, less fuel) would help
Look for a "dolphin" fuel gauge adjuster. I just installed one, but haven't calibrated it yet, so I can't swear it works. It's small and has buttons inside & a screw adjuster.
I added a mechanical temp gauge to the hole on top of the water pump housing with the "square drive" plug in it (big block). Your sensor could go there if you've got a big block
The pump seems to be fine. The tiny air fuel leak sucking in air makes sense, but I saw the fuel boiling inside the clear fuel filter with the engine & pump turned off (after driving, I shut off the car, opened hood and looked). I’ve had vapor lock trouble with this car for years (got home one...