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Run a ground wire from the column to the body near the dash. In 1970, the factory did this with a 6” piece of black wire with two loop connectors. It went from the column bracket/column bolt to a column bracket/dash bolt
After about 6 yrs, I finally got cruise control installed on my 440 Six Pack 4 speed car. Cruise wasn’t available on any 4 spd or any six pack. It works GREAT using all factory parts except 2 small modifications. I added a 2nd cruise stop light switch on the clutch pedal (wired in series) and a...
Not all…kinda. The tail shafts are different (which can be swapped), but it’s much easier to find a b-body A833. The pre-70 (?) A833’s use a different transmission crossmember….but any b-body A833 will fit with the appropriate cross member
Don’t add a lowering block on just one side. You can sort of adjust the rear end by raising the front torsion bar on the left side & re-aligning the car
1. fuel - ground the wire at the fuel pickup at the gas tank. The gage should go to full. If not, the gage, wire to the gage, or ground at the tank is bad
2. Temp - ground wire at sending unit & the gage should do “something”. If not, the wire or gage is bad
Please give the scientific explanation. I understand that at the extremes, flow won’t be good….e.g. a 1-blade fan or a 1000-blade fan won’t flow well. I just went from a 6-blade to a 7-blade and saw a 5-degree lowere running temperature about 1 hr apart (before/after) and the 7-blade runs cooler
These guys are correct. The knob itself is reversible. Convertibles never had rear window defoggers (fyi). That location is correct for a convertible top mechanism & “probably” the same location for a defogger switch (?)