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Have 3:23's on my 67 R/T. Revs are 2700-3000 at normal freeway speeds-a little high but tolerable, and the ratio is the perfect blend for streetability and hi-perf. Have often though about going to 3:91's, but having had several cars with that ratio, all I have to do is recall what a misery...

Hard to believe one of those is still in place and operational-they were a disaster and eliminated quickly in every car that had one as I recall. Truly a must have for a restorer.

Appreciate the responses guys, this is why B Bodies is the best!

Thank you sir, I shall check them out.

Less is always more in my experience. Too many guys go for too much, thinking that the "rump rump" idle is king only to learn the the fun car has gone away-I am also a victim of this (long, long ago). Few motorheads can resist the attraction of a car that has that seductive idle quality that...

Yeah, I know. TTI are the best, but the Sixer is income challenged. Can anyone give me honest info on the alternatives? While performance is king, ease of fit and install ease as well as decent (not absolute best) hp gains are priority for me. Oh, and not cost a months wages is a big plus...

There's a mopar oe engineer in a nursing home somewhere STILL chuckling about his design............

This is why they make those seal saver bushings for timing covers-there may be one for your converter snout. That groove around the snout could definitely be your leak.

Sixer 1.1:icon_winkle:

I agree with the head gasket diag. A vertical flow radiator won't show a lot of flow visually like a cross flow will. Not mentioned is the need for good fan clearance and a shroud. No air flow means a hot system.

Amazing how someone can mangle such a simple unit. No doubt it's gonna run a lot better when you're done.

Years ago. had a 67 442 with straight pipes-no muffs at all, to the rear bumper. Got a nuisance ticket and had to find a cheap solution. I stuffed a bunch of steel wool into the pipes, and drove slowly to have it inspected. Worked like a charm! However, driving home (dark out) on the freeway...

Not mentioned was that spring heights need to be carefully checked when using the 1.6-the extra lift may remove the safety margin that was inherent with the 1.5. Edit-oops, see that dart did mention springs.

Valves AND seats both have to be ground when doing a valve job, regardless of condition, to ensure angles are correct on both. Really have to work hard to bend valves when grinding, near impossible unless you are insanely pissed and also intend to damage grinding wheel. A light touch is the...

Lakeville,Minnesota.

1967 Dodge Coronet R/T. Dark Red Metallic with White Bucket Interior. Power Steering, Power Brakes, 440/375 HP, Torqueflite auto with console. Magnum 500 wheels, 15" with fresh Goodrich radial G/T's, P235/60R-15 front, P245/60R-15 rear. 8 3/4 Sure Grip rear, 3.23 ratio. Edelbrock 800cfm...

Bypass isn't such a bad deal-on a cold start it allows flow when the oil is cold and thick. Unfiltered oil is better than no oil, or a blown filter medium. Remember-back "in the ol' days" many (most actually) engines had no filter at all, or at best a bypass filter. Filters really didn't...

Arty will pull 90 psi on a cold start, with 10-40 synthetic in it. 75 psi when warm at 2000 rpm and up, 40-45 at idle.

Manual sez on the Federal pump (which sounds like what you have) fill level is right at the bottom of the fill tube. ATF works fine, though there are PS fluids available. One of the best is GM Cold Climate fluid, have stopped a lot of cold operation problems with it.

Well, this "old wife" has 40 years in the auto repair biz, so I guess I'll acquiesce to your superior knowledge.