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The dual exhaust, 4-bbl carb and intake should get you about 30 HP with the stock cam. Tuning will be important. Look at the FBO re-curve kit: FBO Ignition - Home of the HRR688 First, the headers are pricy for headers that wrap under the drivers side tierod. The tubes get damaged easely on...

Glen-ray does great work. It will come back looking like new.

Yes they will seal if the block and heads are flat. I have ran the standard Fel-Pro PT(forgot the number) gaskets with 11:1 compression and no problems (but the engine did have head studs.)

Don't forget to get a low profile spark plug socket for the #4 spark plug (if a 440 in a B-Body): Loading... NGK Spark Plug Chart: https://www.ngk.com/ngk-spark-plug-numbering-systems I use the shorter ISO height spark plugs, length from seat to plug wire tip = 50.5mm or 1.98" long. In NGK...

I was talking about the cylinder head studs. Usually just drill the head bolt hole a bit larger diameter. This is what I did on a small block with head studs. When I did the 505" stroker with the Trick Flow heads, I just used the head bolts where the shank is a bit smaller. Narrowing the...

Are you using Trick Flow heads? If you are, and also using head studs, the studs might be restricting flow because the Trick Flow heads bring oil up to the rocker stand through the head bolt hole like on the Mopar small block (just both from #4 cam bearing.)

I think the HS rockers have ball adjusters and use cup pushrods? With the ball adjuster, the oil hole is usually near the adjuster threads and sprays on the outside of the adjuster. The Cup type adjusters that use ball end pushrods oil through the adjuster to where there is a limited amount of...

I would have said 0.055" over for 4.375" bore because there is a good selection of pistons and rings in that size, but you said it was already 0.060" over.

TTI headers fit nice. Haven't used Dougs, but hear good things about them. I would avoid the Hooker 2" primary headers, but the 1-7/8" are OK. Been a long time (1990's) since I tryed some of the cheaper brands, like Blackjack and Headman, because of low quality.

should be fine. Sonic check the bores will give you more information.

Try it at the recommended 106 degrees, you have the gear and converter for it.

I think on many engines, like the old Mopars, the keyway is in-line with the front crank throw. If the keyway is square to the drivers side block deck, then the piston should be at TDC (ideally, but machining tolerances can mess that up.) This just shows the cam degreed off by about 45-degrees :)

Might need some WD-40 and a large pry bar to get the rear shackles out if the bushings if they are all dry and rusted. Be careful, I did have a car fall off the cheap type jack stand trying to get one of the rear shackles out of the body. I think I cleaned up the bushing hole in the body with...

Check what the required primer/sealer color is supposed to be. With the Summit Racing Bronze single stage paint, they want that over a black primer/sealer

Sorry I can't help, but I'll watch this because I have a 2008 6.1L with the Nag1 pullout I might try swapping into an old coronet also.

Look at the shift kit instructions for how the throttle valve / spring assembly goes into the valve body, and also the gap between the throttle valve and lever stop.

looks good. make sure to use matching valve springs

If a re-ring will seal it up, run the low compression and a high stall converter. Sounds like it's just until the other engine is done.

No under car or suspension photos, and no photos with the top up? Sort of an odd situation where it looks like a pretty nice almost survivor, but nice paint job and some other items taking away the survivor vibe. Fully restored I could see it getting $100,000 by those who want the new/restored...

Testors Fluorescent paint, but I blended some yellow and I think a touch of green with the orange to get a shade closer to stock looking.