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The car has Firm Feel strut rods, torsion bars, upper control arms, pivot pins, urethane LCA bushings, the lower control arms are boxed, etc. In my first post, you'll see that according to FFI, they said to have caster set at 3-4 degrees and all other settings in the stock range. That is what I...

I swapped in a spare unknown box I grabbed at a swap meet last night. Before putting the box in, I felt the resistance on the worm gear of both boxes. There was slightly more resistance in the FFI box, but nothing truly significant. I could not turn either sector shaft by hand. Maybe if I had a...

I've had the Dart back to two different shops. Alignment checks out. The sector adjustment has no effect other than to make the box sloppy. I'm back to thinking it's the box, so I'm going to swap in an unknown box for comparison. Both shops that have looked at the car suggested the box was the...

I've wondered the same. And I know people do it. But here are my thoughts, as I've pondered the cooling situation in my cars and run it by people with PhDs in mechanical engineering and fluid dynamics.... If you run the same amount of coolant through both radiators, some portion of the coolant...

A&A transmission. I found an NOS switch with seal on eBay once too.

Much too close. Can't speak to drag racing, but I have experienced a ruined radiator due to a hard stop. No fancy mounts or anything like that, but I had at least 1" between the fan and radiator, and my fan blades flexed enough (standard fan, not flex) to completely core my radiator. After the...

I separated all the linkage and centered the steering shaft in the column, and the resistance is definitely coming from the steering box. I also put the power steering pressure back to stock. Nothing helped. I talked to Dick at FFI (he's a good guy) and he was pretty convinced the sector shaft...

Good to know I'm not alone! Seem like simple issues to address, but my experience is they don't really care that much...

Mine was destined for a /6 so I wasn't super concerned about the bearing. I figured it was worth a shot, as the aluminum case was worn out and clearly would cause issues soon. The nose of the output shaft and the receiving portion on the input shaft are larger on the OD transmissions. I'm...

I've done it. I put late OD guts into an early A-body iron case. You have to use the correct bearing for the input shaft for that case (small- some might think this a bad idea, but it worked OK). Using a small bearing case also make assembly a bit of a pain. There is also some interference in...

I found the adjustment procedure for the sector shaft thrust screw in the FSM and it says to adjust 3/8-1/2 turn past zero lash, so it is a fairly tight setting to begin with. I have played with it from where it was originally, +/- about 1/2 turn and it doesn't change the problem. There is also...

There is definitely some stuff happening in the steering column. I haven't had a chance to disassemble it yet, but that's a good idea. The column has a Grant wheel on it, which is at least rubbing or binding slightly somewhere. And as I said, the coupler is completely shot. I hope to get into it...

Interesting thought- the whole deal only has about 500 miles on it. All Moog parts, all new from Firm Feel. I don't remember anything feeling wrong, but I'll check.

What did you incorrectly adjust? The thrust on that top nut/screw? I don't think I touched that, but I may have. I know I tightened up the one in the Charger once.

I have a '67 Charger and a '72 Dart equipped identically as far as power steering. Both have Firm Feel stage 2 boxes and Saginaw pumps. I recently got the Dart together and aligned. Some of you may know the story- the entire drivetrain was proven in another Dart that was wrecked. Per Firm Feel...

I finally got the time and weather necessary to do some highway cruising and tune parts of the map that I couldn't reach around town. You really need some steep up/down hill stuff to reach the high RPM low and high load parts. The map is very stable through about 4200 RPM now. I haven't run it...

I have their 3" system and Dynomax mufflers on my '67 Charger. Personally, I would prefer it to be even quieter (so would my neighbors), but I doubt you'll get much quieter without restricting the exhaust too much. Others have said it's too quiet, or just right. No one has ever said it was...

This is almost certainly a grounding issue. My bet is your gauge cluster and the sender are not sharing a good ground. When we broke in this motor, we did not rely on the gauge. Only an IR thermal gun was used. Plus, I think the thermostat got changed from 160 to 180, so temps should have risen...

Glad it helped. Not sure if all of these have this lock out or not, but certainly the 66-70 models I've worked with have it.

I have encountered a similar issue. It was due to the 1/2 shift arm and reverse arm interaction. They mesh internally to lock out reverse in 1/2. Try loosening the cover and seeing if it will shift into reverse easier. If it does, tighten the cover with it in reverse and repeat the test. In some...