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It's no big deal to vent your
tank and get rid of fuel vapor
odors.
You're not tied to locating
parts that are more than
50 years old and sometimes
non-existant.
In your case, I suspect a
plugged vent hose.
This pic is on a custom build
that utilizes a Corvette brake
booster charcoal filter...
"The pump should stay cool if you run a fuel return, dead-heading it will heat it up"
Not true. The pump only runs when
there's a demand for fuel, and the carb
uses it as it's delivered.
What burns up an electric pump is
installing it as a "puller" instead of
a "pusher". Mount the electric below...
A study was conducted by a utility
company I worked for in the late '80s
on the quality of motor fuels from
various suppliers. There were 100's
of vehicles in this companies fleet.
A pattern emerged as to fuel cost
and fuel related engine failures, and
maintenance problems.
Bare in mind that...
The springs that 70Fish suggest are
supposed to fit one inside the other
with their end attaching points being
the same. With what your pic shows,
you have spring tensions of different
rates pulling at at different angles.
The spring in a spring is a safety
feature. Should one of those springs...
That formula equates a carb with 100% EV
and as stated, just gives a starting point.
Altitude, humidity, ambient temps all play a roll.
What works at sea level, is going to choke
and puke at 5000 ft.
It wouldn't surprise me that the OP''S
configuration is nearing 90% + VE given
the optimal...
The equation is just for ballpark (a starting
point). Many things affect a carbs
performance on a given engine. But you
knew that, of course. I wouldn't rely on
that formula hoping everything will
perform to it's optimal.
An easy way to check for integrity of the
needles and seats: Remove the carb and drain
any fuel in the bowls. Attach a vacuum pump
and hose to the fuel inlet, invert the carb and
press the vacuum pumps' handle a couple
times to see if the vacuum holds. If no
vacuum there is definitely a problem...
Yes, I hit the big red X. I hate them as to the
degree of disagreement.
As long as the engine is allowed to reach
'normal' operating temps, even when
stationary, it will burn off any contaminants
present.
There are literally 1000's of 440's in the field
performing pump duties. They're not any...
Did the same as TN Mopar. Used a roll over
check valve, bug screen, charcoal
master cylinder booster line filter, sealed
cap. Inexpensive and easy.
No fumes in the garage.
I'm running 5/16 steel to 3/8 rubber and not
a single problem. I would check all clamping
connections, tank vent, and pick-up screen
in the tank, or your gas cap. Your system is
creating a vacuum somewhere and is sucking
in air. The size of the lines has little effect
on fuel delivery at most...
You don't need much to vent a tank. I use a
power brake booster vacuum line charcoal
filter and a marine/boat bug screen. Simple
and cheap. No gas fumes in the garage.
(The black filter/short hose section/billet
bug screen). The bug screen has a check
valve to prevent fuel flow if you're upside...
True on the variables. Altitude, air density,
humidity, temperature, all have an effect.
The overall tuning relies on where the
PowerPlant will spend the majority of
It's useful life. The applied formula does
give a reasonable starting point.
Late again to the party, but there is a
mathematical formula for determining
required cfm.
The formula for calculating how much CFM (cubic feet per minute) an engine requires is: CFM = Cubic Inches x RPM x Volumetric Efficiency ÷ 3456.
Any ordinary stock engine will have a volumetric...
The Quick Fuel Slayer Series is a little easier
to tune. 4 corner metering jets and secondaries
adjusted with one screw. I run one on a 440
and it works well.