Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks for the compliment.
It being my first Mopar, from
what I've learned while being
a member here, there are a
few things I'd change. But
the project then becomes
perpetual. There are some
things yet to do before it's
what I would call "done".
No full tint is allowed on the
windshield, but a 6" wide
strip across the top is.
Both that and the side
windows are 35% max
[blockage], and the rear
window can be limo tint
as long as the vehicle has
mirrors on both driver and
passenger side.
I do agree that white is the
way to go for cooler overall
cabin temps. But it can still
get hot as hell in the cabin
when parked outside in the
sun.
My concern is the overall
look of the truck if I do
decide to tint the windows.
Old time hotrodders didn't
know what window tint was.
This ol' gal does not have
A/C, but a 440 w/ headers
ahead of the firewall and
pipes outboard the frame
under the running boards.
Here in NM it's not
uncommon for hot, dry,
dusty days in the summer.
Tossing around the overall
asthecics as to how she
would look with the
windows tinted.
I use Por-15. Never had a
problem after using as
directed with any rust
problems. This on a truck
that is over 80 years old.
Applied after media
blasting, and the cab sat
outside in the weather after
application for a couple
years. It's tough stuff.
I remembered years ago now, seeing
my granddad tossing tractor parts
in a big washtub who's contents
smelled strangely like molasses.
Curious that a post can bring back
that memory and revealing the
reason. Thanks for posting.
Undercoating if applied by the
manufacturer wouldn't be gobbed
on like that shock shows.
Though an option for some
manufacturers (a means to charge
the customer more $) tended to
use that stuff sparingly, as it cost
them labor, equipment, and a special
set in the production line, and this
stuff...
I'm in agreement with RM23UOA on this one.
It looks bad enough to me that full access
to the frame is required to set the frame in
its' original position. Pulling the body off at
a minimum. Welding access to all four
surfaces is imperative. Doing this will also
allow you to inspect and repair...
Reviving an old one...
Got the glass in the windshield frame. No
problems other than it took quite a bit of
force and the use of a rubber mallot.
After talking to the glass guy at our local
hot rod builders shop, he suggested using
the bedding tape. It worked well, and the
glass fit tight in...
Many here have offered viable processes
an/or solutions as to how to tackle the
rust problem you're faced with.
I've been through this twice. On a Jeep that
frequented Texas beaches and an 80 year
old pickup that sat in the dirt for 30 years.
To truly get the "in your face" picture of
what...
I'm in agreement with ThrashingCows.
I'd strip the body and have it blasted.
(if you don't want to do this yourself).
Once stripped, you'll have a very clear
picture of what you're faced with. Weigh
the cost of replacement body sections
and metal that you can form yourself
against the...
MoparLeo
Appreciate your concern, but this isn't really a
case of not knowing what to do. I do know, and
have the tools to accomplish the task. I was
merely asking about a glazing compound that
comes close to what Mopar may have used
in 1940. Assembly of this frame is straightforward
and simple...
That is probably precisely what I'm looking for.
I'll visit our local carquest. I can run a bead
on the channel section of the center divider as
a test. I've a friend with the same year Dodge
truck, and he's very unhappy that he used
urethane. To replace a broken pane took him
a week of digging...
Thanks for your suggestion. I've been all over
most of the old truck websites, and what they're
doing is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. (Urethane)
My posting here is to tap the knowledge of maybe
someone who has worked in the glass setting
business and has set glass as the 'old timers'
did it...