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Unless this is a fancy #s matching job that calls for a factory steel dipstick with the proper paint overspray, get yourself this one:
Mr. Gasket 6924 Mr. Gasket Engine Oil Dipsticks and Tubes | Summit Racing
I've used several, and they've always tapped right in. May require a little tweak to...
Well crap....I've got 7 Dwayne.
Who knows what happened to #8...probably used it to open a beer bottle or something else stupid and it rolled under one of the work benches haa..
I see where those are missing from Carl/Ckessel's setup.
Many 'aftermarket' shafts have the top oil holes and don't have the offset bottom ones, I guess they're assuming they're for aluminum (or steel) roller rockers which ususally don't care about that offset.
If da' Kern is out of stock I'm positive I have some stockers up in the...
Yes yes yes!
Using a 1/4" drive with one hand makes it hard to over-tighten these...of course some guys can screw up anything...but this is how I do it too and no problems.
Another tidbit I learnded from a former (old guy!) Chrysler factory race pro was to NOT use grade 8 bolts...grade 5s are...
Pop's family was in the trucking business for years...needless to say I learned a lot hanging around the shop when I was a youngin!
I've used my shop-vac to vacuum out coolant when doing head swaps with the engine in the car many times, to empty the heads as much as possible but mainly to keep...
I like the 440 Source, but no way in hell would I trust $299 solid rollers...
On all their other offerings, they mention if they're from Comp or Morel or whoever, but not those.
Use at your own risk!
Well I'm on the other side of the fence here. You'll be fine with either vendor, but I'd use the 440 Source before Hughes just based on customer treatment alone.
Parts quality is a wash as far as I'm concerned. They both use offshore crankshafts. The 440 Source includes Clevite bearings, SCAT...
Nitriding usually costs a few more bucks at purchase time (assuming you're ordering custom, or direct) but as a wise Mopar shaman once told me (starts with a D and ends with a Porter) anything you can do to hedge your odds against a failure these days is worth it...
Obviously it doesn't...
I'm not sure if this was in reference to my post, but the spreadsheet file I mentioned is not my nor anyone else's tune but rather a customizable Excel sheet with the proper formulas that can calculate and set the table values according to the data you enter.
You will enter your known and/or...
Are you controlling timing with the EFI (Hyperspark distributor etc), and are you using the tuning software on a PC? If so, I have a spreadsheet that you can use to input all your desired timing values at every point in the RPM curve and then copy/paste into your Holley EFI software.
PM me your...
Yup. I did that a few years back, and video'd the results of the cam moving out the front of the block.
Maybe I deleted the video? I'd much rather blame the yootoob bots though!
Cam button use
For everyone that might be thinking the meshing of the oil pump driveshaft gear and cam gear push the camshaft toward the rear of the block, it's actually the opposite....
That helical gear action pushes the camshaft forward. That's why non-tapered lobe cams (roller cams) use a thrust button...
Iron heads and intake with no milling or decking, the tin gasket by itself will work fine. Adding the paper gaskets with your very stock setup may well cause some alignment issues.
What do you call them then, sugar walls?
(80s Sheena Easton/Prince female anatomy reference, sorry haahaah)
:lol:
Wow that's some bullchit work right there. Any builder worth his salt will give you a list of all your clearances because they should actually be measuring them....I guess you know not to use that shop again!
Oh well, glad you found the problem and thanks for following up:thumbsup:
Did you read that right....it's 226 on the intake @ .050....nowhere near snotty in a 426W.
I've gotten to a nice 13-14 in/hg at an 800 rpm idle with a (slightly bigger) 231 degrees @ .050" in a (slightly bigger) 440, with tuning you should be able to get it where you want it.
The "split" ICL...
Wow that's way off.
Try loosening the bracket bolts on both sides and then setting the engine in, not all the way home, but just enough to see if you can get the through-bolts aligned on both sides. The brackets have some wiggle room and can be tightened up afterwards. If they're still off, it's...