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You said that the driving is wonderful.. What improvements are you hoping for?

Possibly 3 pounds of packaging included in the shipping weight?

Have you ever tried to pull out or push in a shock absorber? It exerts a lot of force, especially if you're traveling on a bouncy gravel road. That force, which can measure in hundreds of pounds when measured on a shock absorber dynamometer,, is taken up by the brace, both pushing up and...

I remember back in the day, we'd not dream of getting a new master cylinder. We'd just take the old one out, get a rebuild kit, hone it out and put it back together.

Most of the Raybestos master cylinders sold where I worked came from Mexico.

How corroded are the lines on the outside? As Don mentioned, looking at the condition of the fluid can tell you a bit about internal rust. At least, before taking everything apart, simulate a panic stop by jumping on the brakes full force (you don't have to be driving, the car can be stopped)...

So what was causing it to sit straight the day before you noticed that it was no longer level?

When centered, do you have the same number of rotations going fully left or right? Perhaps the tie rods are out of adjustment.

There is a small amount of return from the piston seal. As the piston moves outwards from its static position (1) the fluid seal is deflected (2). When the hydraulic pressure is released the fluid seal regains its static position, moving the piston back and providing clearance at the friction...

Mine have the hole as well.

Power steering fluid shouldn't come out. How are your levels? If the level is too low and it starts foaming, it will rise to the top and come out. Same thing if there's a restriction causing cavitation. But usually you'll hear the pump whining in both of those cases.

While tubing is measured on the outside, pipe is measured on the inside diameter so 1/8" looks a lot larger.

It might have been better to have a 90° or 70° angled fitting to avoid bending the hose.

1970 FSM is like that too.

Besides separating, it can attract any impurities that were harmlessly suspended in the DOT3/4 fluid and cause clumping problems, possibly restricting smaller orifices.

DOT 4 is just better, but no ill effects if you use it instead of DOT 3. It's like putting premium gas in your 318 instead of regular - not going to hurt it.

While I like RE, and have bought stuff from him in the past, in this case he is incorrect. The DOT specs do specify composition, and that's the reason why DOT 3 and 4 are clear or light amber, while DOT 5 is purple, to make sure people are aware there's a difference when they grab a bottle.

Because DOT 5 is silicone based, it is about as safe as synthetic car wax on your paint.