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These guys are spot on...true converter bolts have thinner heads for clearance.

I guess not....maybe they know enough to set things up to oil correctly...

THIS is truth!

You bet they are....because at times we've actually been able to vote them out! Maybe it's time for an "electoral college" of sorts for states too.... :thumbsup:

I thought a big bonus of going roller was you can use any oil? I do know that my engine guy (and other pro builders ) do NOT recommend the higher zinc/phosphorus-type oils with roller cams, regardless of your spring forces.

...except that the "standards" are fluid and keep changing to meet whatever the new "carbon footprint requirements" and green blah blah blah dictate....a load of meadow muffins! How anyone with a brain can keep voting these guys in baffles the mind...

Me too. Keeps me from having to chase them around too much...

My 505's dialed at 24/50/34 respectively....but that's just my combo. Yours may need something different. I run a transmission cooler in front of the radiator as well but it doesn't block as much as yours appears to in the picture. That definitely isn't helping with airflow at higher speeds...

You have to....even parts from "reputable" companies have issues sometimes.

Mine did.

Put it wherever it's most comfortable for you with the seat adjusted to where you like it. If that shifter is anything like my Quicksilver, the way the cable connects to the shifter will dictate where you drill the hole. In my case, the hole was drilled slightly forward of the shifter base...

Yes and please folks, use two wrenches! I've seen more ammeters fubar'd from guys tightening the top nut without holding the bottom nut than any "meltdowns"...

It all depends on what you're doing with the car. Unless you're adding loads to the system (electric fuel pump/fan/water pump, more lighting, hot stereo/amp etc) then the factory wiring is fine IF it's in good shape. Check the connections and feel the wiring to make sure it isn't stiff or...

This wasn't today, but I learned that the former owner of my car must have been half deaf or just oblivious to strange rattling noises! After first driving my car years ago and hearing weird rattles I did some searching and finally found the source of the noise. All this stuff was down between...

I bought several from my friendly neighborhood auto parts stores....and for the most part none of them were very accurate. I finally did get one from the local O'Kragens that was close enough to what the temp gun read, but it took a few trips of returning parts and trial-and-error. In other...

I've never had any issues, thank goodness....maybe I've just been lucky? But, I've always stuck to a pretty strict list of pre-checks. I even had one FT break-in go very bad, with tha carb flooding and way too much cranking...and that one held up well.

Aargh! I went through that ordering distributors, not once but two times, about two years apart from a certain Mopar vendor that shall remain nameless (rhymes with zucchini:D). I needed the 'RB' one and got the 'B' distributor in their box labeled "RB 426-440". They corrected it each time but it...

Yeeah baby!

I've probably run every shock made for these cars, and I'd say it all depends on how picky a person is about the ride quality, what type of use they typically see (drag, corner-carving etc) and how much dough they have to spend. As far as the ones mentioned by the OP, KYB = cheap with a harsher...

Can't help with the 71-up widths but pretty sure Sgt. Hunter's POS was a later 70s Monaco, like '77 or '78.