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Yeeah baby!

I've probably run every shock made for these cars, and I'd say it all depends on how picky a person is about the ride quality, what type of use they typically see (drag, corner-carving etc) and how much dough they have to spend. As far as the ones mentioned by the OP, KYB = cheap with a harsher...

Can't help with the 71-up widths but pretty sure Sgt. Hunter's POS was a later 70s Monaco, like '77 or '78.

Fan clutch test = spin that bastard by hand. If it rolls more than 1/2 turn....replace it. Lordy how the internet overthinks everything..... But millwrights are nothing more than "jackers and wenchers".....hahahha! C'mon, we're electrical guys....we rule the world. That's just the way it is...

Since you're running a modified setup, save yourself some frustration and call Dwayne Porter at Porter Racing Heads, Bullet Cams and Mike at Jones cams. They'll want all your info and then you can compare their recommendations and go from there. Nobody anywhere will get you closer to the ideal...

I'm wondering if the previous owner put the wrong length springs on for the application. The rear shackles should be closer to vertical at rest, in the picture they appear to be shoved all the way aft...that will definitely make some noise as the car tries to settle after takeoff.

Sorry bud, somehow I just saw this....probably too late to help but mine's a '68 Satellite. The springs make it very easy to open the hood and they keep it there, and it hasn't suffered from any bow-tosis so I'd say the springs are still working good!

He doesn't spend much time on the forum, email him directly....I'll PM you his address

And then there's that!

I use a place out of SoCal for re-chroming but for you with shipping it wouldn't be much less than the Tri-City price. I drop off/pick up so no shipping. I had a '68 Plymouth B-bod front bumper (unobtanium at the time via AMD....out of stock for almost two years..) redone for $550 and it came...

Just as ghey as every other car with the name Mustang on it!

Two words....powder coat! Haha okay, seriously though if you're running painted wheels just wrap your tool of choice with electrical tape.

:thumbsup:

To be more accurate you also need to know how far down the pistons are sitting below the deck at TDC. Easy enough to check once you pull the heads, but if you're trying to guesstimate before then you'll have to play around with the numbers you have on one of those handy-dandy online calculators...

Denny's Driveshaft site has all the measurements and info to help you get it fingered out.

I always try to give a "thumbs up" or say thanks when I see that someone came back and followed up on a help thread they started even if I wasn't involved in it, to give some positive feedback to folks that do report back on whatever happened. Yeah but she was only about 9 at the time...except...

:lol:

Dang I was hoping we could get two pages on how to remove a roll pin LOL:rolleyes::p

It's always nice to see when guys think around a problem and come up with a solution instead of a pages-long internet exercise in 'futility by committee' because there isn't a quick-and-easy 'kit' fix. The first sentence of your post here says it all. We used to HAVE to figure out how to make...

Ahhhh yes....you get what you pay for strikes again LoL! You're spot on, man. Mancini's basic shafts are made for stock rockers no matter what they advertise. The ones you posted look very nice! I'm using Hughes shafts and they're good too. Banana grooved, threaded ends with plugs for cleaning...