Search results for query: *

If you sit on your hand for a minute and let it numb up a bit it'll feel like someone else's...oh wait dangit I thought this was about different ways to pull something else...wrong forum sorry :lol: :lol: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I'll try to be a specific as possible '68 Satellite 2-door hardtop 505" stroker RB/TF Aluminum heads & intake/850 carb TTI 2" headers to 3" exhaust to the rear bumper with UltraFlow ufflers Aluminum radiator, water pump and housing/belt-driven factory fan and shorty clutch Fiberglass 6bbl hood...

Maybe consider buying an EV

I too had an intermittent engine dying issue a few years back. All electrical good, tested and checked all components, knew it wasn't fuel issue. Turned out to be the old factory ignition switch, like @bobfake posted about above. Bought a replacement from Napa for $21.00 and it's been fine...

With everything being stock, shouldn't be a problem....if you have an 8-3/4 rear it will be easy enough to swap to the other gearset if you aren't happy.

I agree with the Kimmer. Unless you cleaned it up before the pictures, any seepage looks to be from the pan rail area. Keep in mind the two main seal retainer oil pan bolts can bottom out in the holes, as those bolt holes are shallower than the ones in the block...seen that mistake a few times...

These guys are spot on...true converter bolts have thinner heads for clearance.

I guess not....maybe they know enough to set things up to oil correctly...

THIS is truth!

You bet they are....because at times we've actually been able to vote them out! Maybe it's time for an "electoral college" of sorts for states too.... :thumbsup:

I thought a big bonus of going roller was you can use any oil? I do know that my engine guy (and other pro builders ) do NOT recommend the higher zinc/phosphorus-type oils with roller cams, regardless of your spring forces.

...except that the "standards" are fluid and keep changing to meet whatever the new "carbon footprint requirements" and green blah blah blah dictate....a load of meadow muffins! How anyone with a brain can keep voting these guys in baffles the mind...

Me too. Keeps me from having to chase them around too much...

My 505's dialed at 24/50/34 respectively....but that's just my combo. Yours may need something different. I run a transmission cooler in front of the radiator as well but it doesn't block as much as yours appears to in the picture. That definitely isn't helping with airflow at higher speeds...

You have to....even parts from "reputable" companies have issues sometimes.

Mine did.

Put it wherever it's most comfortable for you with the seat adjusted to where you like it. If that shifter is anything like my Quicksilver, the way the cable connects to the shifter will dictate where you drill the hole. In my case, the hole was drilled slightly forward of the shifter base...

Yes and please folks, use two wrenches! I've seen more ammeters fubar'd from guys tightening the top nut without holding the bottom nut than any "meltdowns"...

It all depends on what you're doing with the car. Unless you're adding loads to the system (electric fuel pump/fan/water pump, more lighting, hot stereo/amp etc) then the factory wiring is fine IF it's in good shape. Check the connections and feel the wiring to make sure it isn't stiff or...