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I really appreciate you taking the time to check this for me. :thumbsup:

I suppose that makes sense, but I'm only interested in the original factory length, right or wrong.

Ok, mine are bolts so they are not original. They also appear to be shorter than those. The spacers in the middle of mine are only 1-5/8" long. Interesting.

The ones on the car are 6" bolts. They are old, but not sure if original. Rebuild kit comes with 8" bolts and a +2 inch longer spacer, so the bar will hang 2 inches lower. I want the car to maintain stock appearance and the 8" bolts just don't look right to me. Can anyone tell me...

The only con is spending the money and a little added weight. Not really cons when you consider the gain of less body roll and improved tire contact without impacting spring rate.... maintaining the comfy ride.

From what I recall from my feeble memory, they should bottom out at full spring droop. I would measure them at compression and extension first, .... maybe you can save yourself some dough and re-use the Konis.

Your axle moved up 2 inches. The shock plate is in the same place it was at before you added the blocks.

Ok. Good luck with the new shoes. It's gotta be that. If the worst comes to worst, I have ground 1/8" off the width of new shoes and installed them. People will cringe reading this, but I needed to get the car on the road.

This does not matter. If your drum is offset too much it may bind with the backing plate or pinch the shoes between the backing plate and drum. There are only two things it can be. 1) Binding drum to backing plates, or 2) binding the shoes between the drum and backing plate: Take off the shoes...

On a 61 Chrysler I bought, the brake shoes were wider than the space allowed by the backing plate and drum. Once you tightened the lugs, the brake shoe was seized/squeezed between the backing plate and drum. Try looking at that. Something might be mismatched between the backing plate, brake...

I always seat the axle and bearings with a few light raps with a mall. Tighten all bolts and then adjust. Check, adjust, re-tighten, etc. until happy with the end play.

I can't picture the issue in mind but I can tell you what I did to get a race car low with humungous T bars: I cut the hex sockets out of the rear crossmember and welded them back in clocked. It was a long time ago, so I can't tell you how much I rotated them... but its and effective way to do...

275/60's will fit your car easily with correct back-spaced wheels. Otherwise, you can buy shackles to lift the rear very cheaply rather than make your own.

Switching to manual steering is no more difficult than pulling out the PS box and fixing it. It also has the benefit of reducing quiet a bit of weight. What should really guide your choice is your preference for one or the other.

A sway bar effectively shares spring rates from L-R during the weight transfer of cornering. To the OP: In general, if your car pushes you need less front spring rate or more rear spring weight. If your car is loose, you need less rear spring rate or more front spring rate. Tire size...

Aluminum lowering blocks is the easy way. I have used these on several cars. I currently have 3 inch blocks on my 60 Plymouth. 1-2" blocks should not affect your driveline angle enough to worry about, but you can always check it and add shims at the same time. Easy stuff. The only time I would...

Yup. Just found this out the other day... I was shocked. No wonder alignments on old cars is becoming an arcane art. To the OP: You can actually buy some rudimentary tools and do it yourself. I have not been to an alignment shop in decades.

You don''t need anything expensive or fancy paired with a set of old air shocks. Just pick an inexpensive-medium priced gas shock and go with it.

For what it's worth, I saw a 30+/- Essex hot rod this weekend that had the rear spring perches about 2 feet wider than the front perches. The owner said that it was the stock spring configuration and was done that way by Essex to improve handling. (!?)

I have never heard of this to control body roll. I don't see how it would help other than maybe it binds things up? A rear sway bar is proven and affordable.