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Looks like you took welding on the washer pretty seriously... :lol: I usually just tack them & sometimes have to go back and burn them in a little more...

Stripped for paint... So drop the suspension & K member... Rebuild the suspension & Powder coat the K member... BTW I love spending other peoples money... But Honestly it looks like a full suspension rebuild really is needed...

I've done dozens upon dozens of those... Never used a special tool..... After you remove the T/S lever you can insert a screwdriver into the cavity & pry on the collar... Doesn't take much effort at all...

Not necessarily... Like I said before, post a picture of the bushing taken apart.... There were some upgraded design strut rod bushings to used a washer similar to that... It would go in the hole in the K member and lock into the rubber bushing...

Take the bushing apart and post a picture....

Three, Five.. Something like that... It's been twenty five years since I did mine... I agree somethings not right...

The Pitman shaft only has five teeth, if it were assembled a couple teeth of it wouldn't turn.... Only image I could find is a Chevy but the Mopar pitman shaft is similar...

Look at the angle the steering box is at in relation to the frame rail... I've seen that angle vary some from straight but this particular box is off by probably 10 degrees... When the box angle changes the pitman arm angle also changes.... Think about it... I'll stop wasting my time in this...

And that is how his car was when he took it apart.. But shimming the box is the better approach... Use the tie rods to fine tune it but I'd probably use 3/16" of shim on that box...

The wire it attached to a ring on the bottom of the steering wheel so it doesn't effect your plan... However.. The reason you don't want to do that is the steering box design... When the steering box is centered the gears are closely meshed... but they are only closely meshed for a short area...

Well, my first thought is you need to post more often... :lol: My second thought is the steering box mount on the K frame is cocked in relation to the rest of the car, Try shimming the box more in line with the frame and see where things line up with the steering wheel centered and the tie...

Yeah, bad for you but it made drum brakes work as them were intended..

Yup, the short shoe transfers rotation to the rear shoe which applies force to the anchor pin.... When they move the lining position on the shoe or change the length of the lining it changes ho the shoe applies for to the secondary shoe...

That is kinda what the shoe with the lining in the wrong spot does... It causes the brakes to self energize more aggressively then normal... They are supposed to self energize, but in a controlled fashion... Where is the lining placed on your shoes?

Exactly the thread I was thinking of but didn't think I could find it..

Snap a photo & post it.. Maybe someone will spot something...

Really isn't much you can do about it short of replacing the coupler and/or the steering box... The pin was in the hole before, it'll go back in the hole... Like gkent mentioned the groove goes all the way around so it's not an alignment of the shaft issue.. Put the pin in the hole & know it's...

Picture of the roll pin isn't nearly as helpful as a picture of the coupler hole would be..

Yup, completely different deal... First thing I'd do is put urethane body to subframe mounts... What part of California? Doesn't look like LA... :lol...