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York compressor, BW & Tecumseh are cast iron, York is aluminum... Aftermarket brackets, not OE... Probably had a dash hugger under the dash & over the doghouse...

How many decibels? I don't see Holeeeee CRAP on the scale..

Yup, don't lean of the car... Years ago I was pretty good at it... These days I'm old and fat... :lol:

Actually you can grab the wire with bare hands.. Just don't let any other part of your body come in contact with any part of the car... As long as you don't provide a path back to the car you aren't completing the circuit...

It shouldn't... You should be grounding the plug shell.... When checking spark I prefer to use the coil wire, it sparks eight times as often...

Does take a lot of the fun out of the hobby... We use to build these cars on a budget... Not you need to budget for parts..

Like I told you much earlier.. Go to Auto Zone & get one of their loaner pumps... Also have you checked to oil level in the vacuum pump you have? It takes refrigerant oil.... Normally a sight glass on the end of the pump...

Like I said in the PM, I've had Snap On gauges... They cost a lot more but didn't work or last any better... Loosen all the connections when they aren't in use so the seals can relax and those gauges last & work well...

We use to say these cars will nickel & dime ya to death.... These days we wish there was a part to be had for a nickel or a dime...

The foam is supposed to create a seal with the piece that connects the center vent registers.. The piece Dave posted connects to the round outlet on the left side of the plenum & travels over the steering column then a flex duct connects to the drivers side lower dash vent..

How old and dried out are the hoses on the gauge set? How old and distorted are the seals on the hoses on the gauge set? The first thing you look at is the service equipment cause it always gets mistreated...

The air/freon is pumped out of of the system, the pump vents to the atmosphere... The oil remains in the system, if you were able to pull 30 in/hg water would boil at 90 degrees below zero... But since NASA didn't loan you their vacuum chamber you can't.. Hopefully you can get somewhere around...

If you open the handle on the right (the red handle) you allow flow from the high pressure side to enter the tank... Generally the tank is big enough to absorb that but it still shouldn't be done... If you were to do that with one of the small 12oz cans it could explode... The only reason to...

No!! But you read the pressure as an indicator of state of charge...

Either it's gonna puke till it finds it's level or you can add a overflow tank & make it a recovery system which is what I've done to all my old cars...

It mounts windshields and back glass without he windows ever moving... I think it'll be okay...

It's not common here but we do have some on occasions.. But I lived in Mississippi, Texas & Guam... I've spend weeks in Louisiana.. I probably know what humidity feels like...

Yeah, it still works.. Just never been a fan of eliminating the fresh air option..

Actually no... When you install the new system you block the fresh air inlet... From that point on you only have recirculated air... Running the A/C through the defrost vent works but not as well as fresh air... One of the reasons on a factory A/C car I tend to keep the stock under dash...