Search results for query: *

Awesome!! Just a little flashback moment...

I would check the body stampings to see if the match the VIN... I believe those have a cowl stamping & a radiator support stamp like an E body.. You might prefer a non-R/T but whatever you buy, the VIN has to match or registering it may be a nightmare...

Okay, just a lil bit of obscure info.... You may, or may not know.... Back in the days of old... :rofl: Chrysler offered a De-stroker crank for the 426 HEMI... It was a 3.218 stroke... with a standard bore that would be 366CI.... They were mostly used to make the Hemi competitive after they...

366? I'm guessing a over bored 360?

This is the dealership where my 68 was sold new.... I'd like to have it, but not for that price...

My parts CD is stuck in my dead laptop so I can't look it up... But I'd about guaranty the springs are different.... But finding them will be a challenge.

Yeah, I saw your post & knew you get it... And your right I'm jumping to a conclusion but the photo posted does show both ends are close to the correct points & the middle is high so chances are that's where this needs to go if he's gonna get things to fit....

Anyone ever read the factory service manual body section? There is info about correcting exactly this scenario... It is suggested to place short lengths of 2x4 under either side of the high area along the edge & and carefully apply pressure to the top side, stay close to the edge where the...

Cool upgrade, allows a deeper dish...

No... It's very close to touching the spring, I'll probably run a 1/4" spacer since I have more room outboard than inboard.. Should have had the wheels built with 6" BS but since I knew it was close I figured a little to deep a spacer can fix... Not deep enough something has to get modified..

You sure about that? My Coronet wheels are 17x11 with 6.125" backspacing & they clear everything... Tires are 315/45-17...

71 Plymouth B bodies need lots of wheel outboard of the axle flange... They can also swallow allot of wheel offset inboard of the axle flange... The size wouldn't be an issue other than you could fit a much bigger wheel/tire... However as Greg mentioned.. The 1990s just called. They want their...

You were told wrong... Plenty of N88 coded Chargers out there...

Whether you jump in and learn something or drag it to a professional is up to you.... To me I've always taken the challenge, every time I repair something it gives me satisfaction, a sense of accomplishment & more confidence for the next project... People here can guide you but we can't do the...

So called "Dealer Installed" often isn't, the dealer sublets the install to a local shop that uses aftermarket kits... That looks like an ARA unit... A true dealer installed factory add-on kit from that time period used the standard Mopar servo... Years ago I bought four dealer add-on Cruise...

Throw the cinder blocks away.. Those are well known for fracturing & collapsing.. If you want added security beyond jack stands throw a steel rim & a length of 4x4 under the car

That's a huge variable, it depends on what it needs.. Just running? Or ready to drive? Huge difference, I could probably have it running in a couple hours or less... Ready to drive is a whole different ball game..

Yeah, I take that as obvious but I need to consider the audience...

You ain't gonna hurt anything... If it's locked up you won't move it with a bar, if it's not locked up it'll be good to be moving again... The higher you can get it safely the easier it'll be but if your a skinny guy you could probably do what you need to do with 4'-6" more clearance...

Maybe this will help... It's a big block but the crank bolt is in the same place so it really doesn't matter.... You can see the bolt you need to put a breaker bar on is below the water pump, now put the fan on there & try to reach it.... Thats why some suggest getting access from the bottom...